Have SF water policies led to salmon collapse?

As California’s native Chinook salmon populations dwindle, prompting a shutdown of the fishing industry, environmentalists are pleading with water supply managers for a change of course that they say could save the keystone fish.

On Earth Day, several dozen people gathered on the sidewalk outside San Francisco City Hall to demand that the city’s water provider revise its system for capturing flows from the Tuolumne River, a San Joaquin River tributary and a major source of peninsula water supplies.

“Their terrible water policies don’t just harm the environment, but they harm people and communities,” said Peter Drekmeier, policy director with the Tuolumne River Trust, an environmental advocate.

Drekmeier’s beef with the San Francisco Public Utilities Commission goes back years and rests on the premise that the agency stores far more water than it needs in Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, on the upper Tuolumne, at the expense of the river downstream. The commission’s water management plan is based on the unlikely possibility of an 8.5-year drought—a theoretical disaster dubbed the “design drought” that critics consider overkill.

He cited an analysis that concluded such a drought might occur once in 25,000 years. The commission, which ordered the report, said those results were flawed and cannot be trusted for management decisions.

Environmentalists insist the agency could take a more fish-friendly approach, releasing more water through O’Shaughnessy Dam into the Tuolumne River while still providing adequate supplies for its 2.7 million customers. Just cutting the design drought short by 18 months—to seven years—would make all the difference to the fish, Drekmeier said. He and other environmentalists insist that higher average flows through the Tuolumne and into the San Joaquin would boost salmon numbers.

San Francisco resident and retired botanist Mary Butterwick held a sign on the City Hall steps that read “Honor Tribal Rights.” She said she feels the city of San Francisco has captured a water resource that belongs to others.

“The salmon have the senior water rights,” Butterwick said.

But today, San Francisco and two farming districts in the northern San Joaquin Valley control most of the river’s water. Together, the partners deprive the lower Tuolumne of so much flow that in most years, during key life stages for salmon, it trickles like a creek. This aggressive use of the river comes against the recommendation of California water officials, who in 2018 recommended substantially higher flows in the San Joaquin river system to revive the ecosystem.

The utilities commission and irrigation districts answered by suing the state three years ago. In March, a judge with the Sacramento Superior Court tossed out the lawsuits.

Nancy Crowley, press secretary with the San Francisco Public Utilities Commission, said the city’s water agency is reviewing the decision to determine its next steps.

At an April 23 commission meeting immediately following the sidewalk rally, a procession of speakers representing fishers, tribes, NGOs and disadvantaged communities publicly urged the commissioners to accept the court decision and boost the Tuolumne’s flows.

Farm groups and their lobbyists—and the San Francisco Public Utilities Commission—tend to downplay the ecological impacts of taking water from rivers.

Cintia Cortez, policy analyst with the group Restore the Delta, said the commission’s water management plan is formulated after racist statewide policies that “displaced tribes from their ancestral homelands.” She said communities downstream from the Tuolumne must contend today with the results of reduced flows, including toxic algal blooms.

Michael Frost, a board member with the same organization, called the city’s water policies “rapacious,” blaming the commission for the breakdown of a biodiversity hotspot and the largest estuary ecosystem in the West.

“We are at extinction levels of salmon,” he said.

Decline

Before European Americans swarmed California, adult Chinook salmon returned to spawn in the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers in legendary numbers, with estimates suggesting runs of 1 to 2 million fish each year. The Tuolumne River’s annual contribution to this salmon population amounted to tens of thousands—maybe more.

In the past decade, the Central Valley’s Chinook runs have averaged around 150,000, mostly fall-run Sacramento fish. Just 186 adult Chinook returned to the Tuolumne in 2021, with a promising jump to more than 1,100 in 2023.

The Chinook decline, which has culminated in closure of the state’s salmon fishing season the last two years, has fueled decades of feuding between stakeholders. Fishery proponents contend that state policies unevenly distribute California’s water resources. Farms, they say, get unfair priority, ultimately taking from Central Valley rivers more water than aquatic ecosystems can handle.

“The water policies of California are decimating the fish,” said Scott Artis, the executive director of the Golden State Salmon Association.

Farmers and their allies in the legislature hotly contest this allegation, frequently arguing that farms don’t receive nearly enough water. Two weeks ago, Rep. David Valadao, of San Joaquin Valley, spoke on the House floor, urging the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation to increase water deliveries to the region’s farms.

“Food security is national security, and our ability to grow food for the nation will not survive without reliable water supply for south-of-Delta agriculture,” Valadao said.

But surface water shortages are often mitigated by groundwater pumping. In fact, state crop reports show record hauls of valuable nut and grape crops year after year for decades, with drought periods having little to no impact on harvest. Recent dips in price have resulted largely from oversupply.

Last year, Gov. Gavin Newsom outraged environmental watchdogs by dismantling basic protections on minimum environmental flows through the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta to allow water managers to store more of the resource in upstream reservoirs. Critics said the action would mostly benefit growers. Similar waivers were issued in prior years, and every critically dry year in the last decade.

Another pattern that has agitated salmon proponents is the repeated failure of state and federal officials to maintain a flow of cold water—vital for spawning salmon—downstream of Shasta Dam and Lake Shasta, the state’s largest reservoir. This happens, critics say, when the Bureau of Reclamation releases too much water during the spring and summer irrigation season. Lake levels drop, and water temperatures climb. This process has killed almost all the fertilized salmon eggs and juveniles in the Sacramento River in recent years.

Fishery advocates saw the subsequent collapse coming.

“There is nothing surprising here,” said Barry Nelson, a water policy consultant to the Golden State Salmon Association. “When you kill almost all the babies, you get dismal returns three years later.”

Strategy

STRATEGY Gov. Gavin Newsom’s Salmon Strategy specifies the six priorities and 71 actions to build healthier, thriving salmon populations in California. Photo courtesy of the Office of the Governor

In January, Newsom cited this problem in his “California Salmon Strategy,” a 37-page brochure of proposed recovery actions. It says state agencies and partners will … “[b]y 2025, where appropriate, revise and modernize approaches for Shasta Reservoir management to protect water quality and temperature management for salmon.” The document offers caveats, notably that actions must be considered “in light of other competing beneficial uses of water.”

The number-one competitor for Shasta’s water is agriculture.

Farm groups and their lobbyists—and the San Francisco Public Utilities Commission—tend to downplay the ecological impacts of taking water from rivers. More frequently, water supply advocates blame invasive species, pollution, dams, habitat loss, climate change, poor ocean productivity and overfishing for the breakdown of the Central Valley’s salmon populations.

All of these are plausible factors with known impacts to salmon. In fact, commercial harvest in 2022 probably significantly dented that fall’s spawning returns. That summer, the commercial fleet caught far more salmon than fishery managers anticipated. It was also more than they could sell. Sources said that heaps of Chinook salmon rotted on boats.

Still, most scientists lean on river flows, not fishing pressure, as a key driver of salmon numbers. Historical records of annual precipitation and salmon returns reflect this relationship.

“Every year, nature does an experiment for us … and there’s a very strong pattern where every time flows are high, we get a higher percentage of eggs turning into juveniles, and we get more fish returning three years later,” said Jon Rosenfield, science director at the group San Francisco Baykeeper.

This pattern is not just a correlation, he added, as “there are mechanisms [related to flow volume] that we know drive fish abundance.”

To help the Tuolumne’s salmon, the San Francisco Public Utilities Commission and its partner irrigation districts have proposed habitat improvement measures through a plan dubbed the Tuolumne River Voluntary Agreement. With the landscape restoration group River Partners, the agencies plan to rebuild 77 acres of floodplain beside the river by 2030. This work will be complemented by the addition of 100,000 tons of gravel, the substrate in which salmon lay and fertilize their eggs.

But these measures may have their weaknesses. For one, there is a question about the need for enhanced spawning habitat. In 2008, state and federal fishery biologists found that productive nursery habitat for juvenile salmon in the Tuolumne was, at the time, a greater limiting factor on the river’s salmon production than spawning success.

“[P]roducing more fry by restoring spawning habitat is unlikely to increase adult recruitment,” the scientists wrote in a report.

And restored floodplains do little good unless they are routinely submerged for extended periods—what some say the city’s flow plan for the Tuolumne will fail to do.

“Is it really habitat if there’s no water?” Artis asked.

The city’s voluntary agreement includes actions that specifically address this concern. For instance, it proposes lowering the level of floodplains to facilitate inundation by the river and fish access.

It also calls for added water—but not enough, critics say. State wildlife officials suggested in 2013 that the San Joaquin system be maintained at an average of 60% of all the water in the watershed at a given time—a measure called unimpaired flow. This, they said, would serve as a foundation for restoring salmon runs. In 2018, the State Water Resources Control Board proposed a compromised target of 40% unimpaired flow.

But that number remains a distant goal post. Most years, the Tuolumne’s unimpaired flow ranges between 10% and 20%, while years’ worth of stored water lie idled in Hetch Hetchy. The voluntary agreement will result in an average unimpaired flow of 16%, according to a 2023 analysis by Greg Reis, a staff hydrologist with The Bay Institute.

Such meager flows result in sluggish, warm water downstream of the river’s dams, and it often leaves valuable floodplain habitat high and dry.

Rosenfield, with Baykeeper, noted that even 40% unimpaired flow still tends to be inadequate in California salmon rivers.

“At numbers over 50%, you really start to see more frequent benefits of flow,” he said.

How to ‘Summer’ in SoCo

During the summer months, living in the North Bay can feel like having a built-in coastal Californian holiday at one’s fingertips.

Beach days, restaurant trips and wine pours galore are there to take people around every corner, along with entertainment and activities for personal enrichment or debauchery (depending on the individual, naturally). Personal preferences aside, these long, sunny days and warm nights promise locals a lot of hours to fill with only the best of the North Bay’s upcoming events.

Get ready to grab that sunscreen, some hot company and cool drinks because the starting line for the summer of 2024 begins here and now.

So, get ready, set and play the days away this summer in the North Bay.

Cotati Accordion Festival

Some fan-favorite events are too funny to make up or leave off of a list, and the Cotati Accordion Festival just so happens to be one such happening coming to the North Bay this summer. Not only is this a manifold opportunity for musical fun in the sun, a hilariously random stamp to add to one’s seasonal calendar, but it also offers a sneak peek into the fascinating realm of unique instrumentals and those who enjoy them. So, fold to peer pressure and visit the Cotati Accordion Festival at La Plaza Park Aug. 16 through 18.

To reserve tickets to the 33rd annual Cotati Accordion Festival, visit the website at cotatifest.com.

Country Summer Music Festival

For those out of the lasso loop, the North Bay boasts one crown jewel: Northern California’s biggest country music festival. That’s right, alongside some other incredibly famous and eclectic musical selections this summer, there’s also the County Summer Music Festival. So, one, two, step on down or otherwise West Coast swing the way to the best country music event west of Texas. Headliners for this year’s County Summer Music Festival are Old Dominion, Little Big Town and Jordan Davis.

The County Summer Music Festival is at 1350 Bennett Valley Rd. in Santa Rosa. It will run from June 14 through 16—for more information, to see the full lineup of musicians, buy tickets and/or reserve camping spots, visit the website at countrysummer.com.

Flynn Creek Circus

For those North Bay locals who have always dreamed of running away with/to the circus to escape the day-to-day grind of life so close to the city, they’re in luck—Flynn Creek Circus has precisely what they need to beat the heat these hot summer months ahead. And there isn’t a hotter event in town than the adults-only night at Flynn Creek Circus. The Flynn Creek Circus website promises not only spectacle and a place to party but also enticing tidbits like, “Adults Only shows do feature crude and sexual language and semi-nudity. You’re welcome.”

Whether one is looking to send their kid off to camp to teach them applicable life skills like the trapeze, tightrope or possibly lion taming, or if they want a night away to take in an adult-only show of raucous cabaret, then Flynn Creek Circus is a top choice for only the hottest of summers.

To learn more about Flynn Creek Circus and see the travel calendar for their summertime tour up and down the West Coast, visit the website at flynncreekcircus.com.

Gravenstein Apple Fair

They say an apple a day keeps the doctor away, but visiting the Gravenstein Apple Fair can keep those pesky health practitioners away for up to a year (allegedly). For 51 years, this apple-centric celebration has cheered locals and visitors alike with crisp, juicy delights. Attendees can enjoy apples, apples and more apples in the form of fruit, drinks, music and more—no time for questions. Just buy a ticket, explore and eat down to the core.

The Gravenstein Apple Fair is located at 500 Ragle Rd. in Sebastopol and runs from Aug. 10 to 11. To learn more about this town’s summertime apple extravaganza, visit the website at gravensteinapplefair.com.

Healdsburg Jazz Festival

This year celebrates the 26th annual summertime extravaganza of all things jazz. Musical enthusiasts can come out and enjoy the masterful work of headline artists such as Samara Joy, Ambrose Akinmusire and Joshua Redman (to name only a few).

The Healdsburg Jazz Festival is located at 122A North St. The festival spans from June 15 through 23, meaning nine days to drink wine and dance one’s heart out to jazz this summer. To ensure one doesn’t miss out on the opportunity to move with the groove or check out who will be jamming, visit the website at healdsburgjazz.org.

North Coast Wine and Food Festival

Foodies of the North Bay, look no further than the North Coast Wine and Food Festival to satisfy all those summertime food and wine wants, needs and otherwise desirous thoughts. This is the event of the summer for anyone looking to get a little Dionysian for the season.

The North Coast Wine and Food Festival is set to take place on June 15 at the Luther Burbank Center for the Arts, located at 50 Mark West Springs Rd. in Santa Rosa. To learn more or purchase tickets for this local culinary event, visit northcoastwineandfood.com.

The Greatest Fair on Earth

Don’t let the humble name behind this local fair fool anyone because The Greatest Fair on Earth has nothing to be demure about. After all, this 10-day event from Aug. 1 to 11 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds promises everything and a bag of chips. From the beloved rural traditions like horse racing, rodeos, junior livestock auctions, thrilling carnival rides, perfectly fried fair food, monster truck rallies and demolition derbies, and even Sylvia Zerbini’s Liberté experience in between…well, let’s just say this fair earned its title fair and square.

To visit The Greatest Fair on Earth this summer at 1450 Bennett Valley Rd. in Santa Rosa, go to the website and book tickets at sonomacountyfair.com.

The North Bay’s summer social events offer more options than there are days on the calendar—opportunities to get out into nature, visit delicious restaurants, explore cute little towns and see and meet…the possibilities are nearly endless. Plus, it’s best not to forget all the outdoorsy holidays coming up, which make for an excellent reason to serve up red, white and bubbly like it’s already past 5 o’clock on the Fourth of July. So, get out there and carpe diem California’s central coast this summer!

Cosmico Takes Its Rustic Festival to Guerneville

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Massive music festivals are an acquired taste, as each typically runs three days and is jam-packed with stages, musicians, food trucks and all sorts of sundry goods, depending on the vibe of the fest. Nothing like paying hundreds of dollars to enjoy a favorite band from 300+ yards away with 10,000 close friends.

However, the Cosmico Music Festival is offering a much more thoughtful and chill fest as it ambles out of the summer festival gate early with dates set for May 17-19 at Dawn Ranch in Guerneville. This “boutique” music fest promises a smaller, more community vibe than other bigger fests like BottleRock or Outside Lands.

Started by Anne Driscoll and Chris Schultz five years ago among the redwoods at their home near Mill Creek, Cosmico seeks to be a more intimate affair, with a nod towards local winemakers via their “Wine Camp” attraction, where aficionados can taste some of the smaller label wines the area has to offer.

This is the fifth year for the festival and the first at Dawn Ranch in Guerneville, which is about 20 minutes northwest of Santa Rosa, near the Austin Creek Recreation Area. “While we would have loved to stay in Healdsburg, we also loved the idea of doing it in nature and having a night show outdoors—which isn’t that easy in Healdsburg,” said Driscoll.

The area came across the Cosmico radar in conversations with friends, as it’s located locally as well as spacious enough to fit more people. It’s also home to the rustic Dawn Ranch Lodge, as well as areas where festival attendees can camp.

“We visited it last fall to see all the changes, and even under a rainy sky, we knew that this was somewhere we could create magic. It would allow us to have people stay on site, which creates amazing energy, and gives people such a unique opportunity to be sharing the space with our artists,” Driscoll said.

Both she and Schultz have worked alongside entrepreneurs and music festivals alike, all with an eye towards creating a “business and foundation based on the power of community and connection.” As such, the festival is also part of a non-profit group called The Launch Pad Foundation, which in turn donates to grass roots organizations that reflect their mission to strengthen communities. Examples of these include: Mill Creek COPE, Voices for a Safer Tennessee, Good Fire and Scholarship for Children of Vineyard Workers.

Speaking towards the overall vision of the festival, Driscoll said, “At Cosmico, you are part of the experience, and you’ll be dancing next to your new favorite winemaker or band. You’ll discover new spirits and meet new friends. You’ll be part of creating the energy, and you aren’t just a number on our ticket list.”

This year’s lineup is eclectic and includes indie rock band Susto, King Dream and The Aravelo Brothers, featuring Jackie Greene, Nikki Bluhm and Jason Crosby. Also on the bill is Sam Grisman, son of mandolin player and Grateful Dead-adjacent legend David Grisman.

When asked about the popularity and price point for many of the larger locally based music festivals, Driscoll didn’t pull any punches, saying, “We don’t want to go to a big fest anymore, either. Trying to find your friends, fighting the crowds. I don’t want to feel like I got dropped into a corporate machine, where I’m captive to their big brands and bigger prices.”

Explore the Cosmico Music Fest and buy tickets online at cosmi.co.

Reprezent Designer Sean Armstrong

Sean Armstrong is Sebastopol-based and Cloverdale-born. He is of Apache, Irish and Mayan ancestry and is a multi-hyphenate breakdancer and party promoter with an emphasis on fashion production. He owns the local clothing label, Reprezent.

I will admit that when I curated him into the upcoming 3rd Annual North Bay Fashion Ball (May 18 at Lagunitas Brewing Company in Petaluma), I simply thought his clothing was cool. But after talking to him for this profile, I now consider his clothing a case-in-point of how much story, reference, gesture and message can be woven into what we wear.

Cincinnatus Hibbard: Sean, you have been telling me about the parties that you throw, which seem to represent all the six elements of hip-hop culture (breakdancing, DJing, MCing, graffiti, fashion and spreading the culture). When did you enter hip-hop, or when did hip-hop enter you?

Sean Armstrong: Hip-hop started in the ’80s but has ancient roots in tribal times. For me, the culture was a path out of hardship. Between 14 and 22, I was running around with bad kids. It was fun and games at first, but got to the point where friends were killing each other. These were young kids with egos, born and raised in The Life, with fathers and uncles in jail for gang-banging.

I needed to find a way out. A few friends who were break dancers asked me to join them. With breaking, I could take that attitude and aggression into dance battles and win with skill instead of violence. My gangster friends respected that. That was back in 1996.

CH: In 2006, you started Reprezent hip-hop clothing line. Tell me what inspired your logo (a double triangle akin to a Star of David with a pyramid eye).

SA: It’s a Merkaba. It is ancient Egyptian sacred geometry, and it represents the balance of all oppositions. I use my clothing to spread the Merkaba.

CH: … And activate people with sacred geometry. Tell me about these patterned textiles that you use. They seem both psychedelic and digital.

SA: My mission has been expanded from preserving hip-hop culture to preserving my Indigenous Mayan culture. Those patterns are thousands of years old. Annually, I go on buying trips to the Mayan villages around Lake Atitlán, where they are hand-woven and loomed. Those patterns contain the vibrations of a visual song. When we see them, they activate our ancient selves and tell us who we really are.

CH: Represent.

North Bay Fashion Ball Returns

New York, Paris, Milan, Shanghai and…Petaluma?! Yes. With the Met Gala still fresh on the world’s Instagram feeds, fashion is having a moment.

And for local fashionistas, there is no place better to be than the 3rd Annual North Bay Fashion Ball and Art Market. In Petaluma.

Thanks to the efforts of the Bohemian’s own “Locals” columnist and Sonoma County: A Community Portrait podcaster Cincinnatus Hibbard and fashion label director Lena Claypool of Buck Lucky Brand and Vintage Collective, fashion fans can see tomorrow’s looks today—or at least Saturday—at Petaluma’s Lagunitas Brewery and Beer Sanctuary.

The event is a direct, proactive response to the relative dearth of area fashion events and a means to support our emerging designers. Among the local labels showcased this year are Reprezent, Buck Lucky Brand, Love Morgue, Poofi Studio, The Princess Boutique and YLX Design.

“I think they’re all so great. They’re all totally different. Everyone is speaking to a completely different customer,” observes Claypool. “I think everyone’s working together in a way that’s really cool.”

The criteria while choosing this year’s lineup was simple: “Do I feel passionate about what they’re doing, and who do I feel can really connect with the type of audience that we’re looking to have?” Claypool asks. “Most of the designers this year have never done a fashion show at all and have a brand or have something that they’re just trying to show to the world.”

Complementing this year’s fashion ball is a pop-up art market of over 20 local makers and vintage pickers, as well as food trucks to supplement the Lagunitas burger bar, and live entertainment throughout.

Photographers will be on hand to capture the glamor and glitz throughout the event, so guests are encouraged to dress for the occasion (suggestions include anything from “cover girls to an alien or a stripper”). To that end, guests are invited to enter an “open call” runway for a star turn on stage and a chance to “win a crown by a call of popular acclamation.” All participants will receive a certificate, authenticated by the fashion ball, declaring them “officially hot.”

Of note is the underlying credo of the North Bay Fashion Ball—“fashion and compassion”—to wit, all of the profits from the event are given to Face to Face (Sonoma County AIDS Network), to support their 40-plus year mission to end HIV in Sonoma County.

“Come to be inspired,” says Hibbard, who will emcee the event. “It’s like such a diverse group of people, and it’s really cool to see what they take away from it, because everyone takes away something different.”

Perhaps even a new wardrobe.

The 3rd Annual North Bay Fashion Ball and Art Market itinerary includes, from 2 to 5:30pm, a free Art and Fashion Market with live bands and food trucks, and from 6 to 8pm, the ticketed runway show (with surprise performances), Saturday, May 18, at the Lagunitas Brewery and Beer Sanctuary, 1280 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma. Tickets start at $11.11. For more information, including ticket links, visit instagram.com/northbayfashionball.

Sondheim, Wine and Song

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Larkspur

Sondheim for a Lark

Larkspur’s The Lark Theater continues its revue, Side by Side by Sondheim, featuring a collection of Stephen Sondheim’s most beloved songs, through May 25. The show includes classics like “Send in the Clowns” (A Little Night Music), “Side by Side” and “Company” (Company), “I’m Still Here” and “Broadway Baby” (Follies) and more. The songs, performed by a cast of five (Ashley Rae Little, Ken Brill, Maureen McVerry, Simon Barrad and Emma Roos), are interspersed with stories about Sondheim’s career and the shows from which the songs originate. Showtimes are Saturdays at 7:30pm and Sundays at 2pm through May 25. Tickets are $50 and available at bit.ly/sidebyside-lark.

Petaluma

Wine & Song

Featuring Petaluma bassist and vocalist Dorian Bartley, The Dorian Mode delivers “elegance in classic American music,” from vintage jazz and swing to early R&B via bass, vocals, piano, saxophone and drums. The combo plays from 6:30 to 8:30pm, on Friday, May 17, at Brooks Note Winery and Tasting Room, 426 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma. Music nights are first come, first served, and there’s no cover charge. Guests are encouraged to enjoy a glass (or bottle) of wine paired with a cheese plate, and/or bring their own dinners. More information can be found at instagram.com/thedorianmodecombo and brooksnotewinery.com.

San Rafael

Trivia Café Live

What 2020 Netflix series with the name of a game in its title has been viewed 750 million hours? What deaf performer won the Best Actress Oscar in 1986, and for her work in which film? For the answers to these and other questions, proceed to page 32. To experience Weeklys’ own trivia king Howard Rachelson’s trivial pursuits live, venture to San Rafael’s Cafe Villa for an evening of competitive trivializing (that’s the verb, right?). There, Rachelson’s unique brand of arcane knowledge becomes a team sport. No reservations required (though there is a 32-participant maximum). The games begin at 5pm, Saturday, May 18, at Cafe Villa Trattoria & Bar, 1602 Lincoln Ave., San Rafael. For more information, visit cafevilla.net or call 415.459.6161.

Sonoma

Global Tasting

Tony Moll of Three Fat Guys Winery offers a special blind-tasting of six Italian wines from different regions of Italy paired with an Italian-themed dinner catered by San Francisco’s A16 restaurant, as part of its “The Global Tasting Series.” Sonoma County’s “sommelier to the stars,” Christopher Sawyer, leads the pairing and gastronomic experience accompanied by A16 proprietor Shelley Lindgren, who recently authored Italian Wine: The History, Regions, and Grapes of an Iconic Wine Country. Wines in question will be revealed after the tasting. The dinner and tasting commence at 6:30pm, Thursday, May 23, at Three Fat Guys Winery, 20816 Broadway, Sonoma. Tickets are $135 and are available via bit.ly/sawyer-global-tasting.

Free Enterprise Isn’t Free

A recent survey by the Leadership Now Project, a bi-partisan pro-democracy group of 400 corporations, reveals that 85% of business leaders believe a well-functioning democracy is essential to a healthy business climate, and 78% are concerned about the condition of American democracy today. Hey, no kidding.

Another way of looking at it is that 15% don’t care about democracy, and 22% are worried and don’t know what the hell to do about it. The other stuff we are all facing is disinformation campaigns managed by the Russians and others and threats of violence against poll workers and election officials, jobs that heretofore have never required riot gear, Glocks and armored cars. When one adds in some AI, the whole shebang gets really messy.

Business is often a late adopter of truth, justice and the American Way. It is tardy to recognize when shit is going wrong. And for one reason or another, business leaders are not the first ones to feel the effects of social decline. They live in nice, sheltered communities like Hillsborough, Piedmont, Woodside, Blackhawk, Ross, Kentfield, Tiburon and Belvedere. Once things erode too much, they learn that putting the country back together is tough.

Standing up for democracy is not a partisan exercise. Give your people time off to vote. This is a major signal about how you feel about earning a living versus exercising the right to vote.

Educate your people about how to avoid the profligate political misinformation machine. Voters have never been barraged by bullshit as heavily as they are now. Remind your people to stick to established, legitimate information sources.

As a company, review your political spending and trade group memberships. Too much of what’s discussed in the business community right now is about responding to trends and rhetoric, and not enough is about hardcore, sustainable democratic values.

Americans today are no wiser than the Europeans who saw democracy lose out to fascism and communism last century. Our single advantage is that we can learn from their experiences. Let us not ignore the legacies of Mr. Churchill and Mr. Orwell.

Craig Corsini lives in Marin County.

Your Letters, May 15

Zapped

The PG&E-owned Public Utilities Commission approved a PG&E rate hike last Thursday that will add about $5 a month to the average bill, and it could begin as soon as next month.

Why are Californians continuing to pay for inept “leadership” at PG&E? Why is the governor packing the CPUC with compliant members at the expense of a coherent energy plan?

First, there was the SmartGrid initiative, which led to SmartMeter (not successful as rates increased), then “improvements” to the power grid (CAISO), again not successful as rates went up again, and now a “flat” user rate, which hurts the poor and those on limited incomes.

This is needed (says the CPUC), as previous efforts were not successful, and ratepayers had to pick up the shortfall from a lack of quality programs authored by incompetent PG&E and an equally ineffectual CPUC and cowardly governor, beholden to out-of-state investors who are guaranteed a posted rate of return.

California should terminate PG&E and make PG&E a state-run utility.

Gary Sciford

Santa Rosa

‘Evil Does Not Exist’ Gets Back to Nature

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In a Japanese mountain community not far from Tokyo, a quiet, unassuming handyperson named Takumi (played by Omika Hitoshi) lives with his eight-year-old daughter, Hana (Nishikawa Ryô). While Hana attends the village school, her father engages in a number of back-country odd jobs, including gathering fresh water and wild wasabi for a local udon restaurant—the clear mountain stream water gives the udon a unique flavor.

Filmmaker Hamaguchi Ryûsuke’s ominously titled drama, Evil Does Not Exist, takes care to show that Takumi and Hana’s simple, idyllic family life depends on observing and interacting with the natural environment. But their lifestyle is fragile, almost too good to be true. 

A Tokyo developer wants to build a “glamping” tourist attraction in the nearby forest where Takumi and Hana live, and has sent a pair of salespersons to convince the villagers it’s a bright, money-making idea. None of them are buying that argument, and the meeting dissolves into a tense standoff.

In some eco-dramas, such a disagreement might lead to vigorous protests or even open violence, but that’s not how director Hamaguchi (Drive My Car) operates. Instead, the poison represented by a thoughtlessly planned commercial development seeps into the village slowly, silently, in a careful procession of disturbing signs and symbols. 

Shotgun and rifle blasts from deer hunters echo through the forest. Residents begin to worry about fire prevention and the water supply. The developer—which uses the juvenile corporate brand name Playmode—doesn’t seem to comprehend what Takumi means when he warns that the proposed luxury camping project is located on a deer trail. The main thing Playmode is concerned about is taking advantage of government pandemic subsidies to finance the development. 

A member of the Playmode sales team, Ms. Mayuzumi (Shibutani Ayaka), starts to have personal doubts about tromping in the wilderness after listening to Takumi and his friends’ passionate objections. Her associate, Takahashi (Kosaka Ryûji), comes to more or less the same realization, even though it means they could both lose their jobs. However, there’s also a sinister underlying force at work in the mountains. 

The director, his screenwriting collaborator Ishibashi Eiko—she’s also the composer of the haunting musical score—and cinematographer Kitagawa Yoshio install the subtlest whisper of impending dread to the story, as in the long, long Terrence Malick-style tilted-up tracking shot of trees that introduces the action. And the recurring glimpse of a decaying deer carcass. The signs are obvious to Takumi the woodsman and Hana the headstrong schoolgirl.

Hamaguchi is not afraid to quote classic Japanese films to make his point about the spiritual dangers of daring to despoil the landscape. The slyly humorous wood-chopping showdown between Takumi and Takahashi is plucked from Kurosawa Akira’s Seven Samurai.

And when Takumi takes a moment to ponder the frozen water of a pond in the midst of searching for his daughter, Hana, who has suddenly gone missing, we’re reminded of the sad fate of Anju, another lost girl, in Mizoguchi Kenji’s Sansho the Bailiff. The point seems to be that certain spirits are alive in the woods, and that they’ve always been there. 

Evil Does Not Exist also shares the mood of ecological peril that filmmaker Kurosawa Kiyoshi displayed in his 1999 films, Charisma and Barren Illusions. The “Other Kurosawa” seems to prefer thoroughly supernatural origins for the bizarre occurrences that upset the environment.

For Hamaguchi, the veil of doom descends on the otherwise sweet little community as the direct result of the all-too-human profit motive. It’s a natural reaction to the thousands of tiny transgressions human beings have visited on this splendid setting.

Evil Does Not Exist, an outdoorsy chamber piece, uses its understatement wisely. For every insult toward the earth, the natural world exacts a price. Not even Takumi, the humble holy man, can stop it. If Drive My Car was the tragedy of a modern man, Evil Does Not Exist is modern man’s comeuppance, served magnificently chilled. 

* * *

In theaters

Free Will Astrology: Week of May 15

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ARIES (March 21-April 19): Polish-born author Joseph Conrad (1857–1924) didn’t begin to speak English until he was 21 years old. At 25, his writing in that language was still stiff and stilted. Yet during the next 40+ years, he employed his adopted tongue to write 19 novels, numerous short stories and several other books. Today he is regarded as one of the greatest writers in the English language. You may not embark on an equally spectacular growth period in the coming months, Aries. But you do have extra power to begin mastering a skill or subject that could ultimately be crucial to your life story. Be inspired by Conrad’s magnificent accomplishments.

TAURUS (April 20-May 20): Hypothetically, you could learn to give a stirring rendering of Beethoven’s Symphony No. 5 on a slide whistle. Or you could perform the “To be or not to be” soliloquy from Shakespeare’s Hamlet for an audience of pigeons that aren’t even paying attention. Theoretically, you could pour out your adoration to an unattainable celebrity or give a big tip to a waiter who provided mediocre service or do your finest singing at a karaoke bar with two people in the audience. But I hope you will offer your skills and gifts with more discernment and panache, Taurus—especially these days. Don’t offer yourself carelessly. Give your blessings only to people who deeply appreciate them.

GEMINI (May 21-June 20): When I lived in San Francisco in 1995, thieves stole my Chevy Malibu. It was during the celebratory mayhem that swept the city following the local football team’s Super Bowl victory. Cops miraculously recovered my car, but it had been irrevocably damaged in one specific way: It could no longer drive in reverse. Since I couldn’t afford a new vehicle, I kept it for the next two years, carefully avoiding situations when I would need to go backward. It was a perfect metaphor for my life in those days. Now I’m suggesting you consider adopting it for yours. From what I can discern, there will be no turning around anytime soon. Don’t look back. Onward to the future! 

CANCER (June 21-July 22): Cancerian basketball coach Tara VanDerveer is in the Women’s Basketball Hall of Fame. She won more games than anyone else in the sport. Here’s one aspect of her approach to coaching. She says that the greatest players “have a screw loose”—and she regards that as a very good thing. I take her to mean that the superstars are eccentric, zealous, unruly and daring. They don’t conform to normal theories about how to succeed. They have a wild originality and fanatical drive for excellence. If you might ever be interested in exploring the possible advantages of having a screw loose for the sake of your ambitions, the coming months will be one of the best times ever.

LEO (July 23-Aug. 22): Am I one of your father figures, uncle figures or brother figures? I hope so! I have worked hard to purge the toxic aspects of masculinity that I inherited from my culture. And I have diligently and gleefully cultivated the most beautiful aspects of masculinity. Plus, my feminist principles have been ripening and growing stronger for many years. With that as our background, I encourage you to spend the coming weeks upgrading your own relationship to the masculine archetype, no matter which of the 77 genders you might be. I see this as an excellent time for you to take practical measures to get the very best male influences in your life.

VIRGO (Aug. 23-Sept. 22): Now that your mind, your heart and your world have opened wider than you imagined possible, try to anticipate how they might close down if you’re not always as bold and brave as you have been in recent months. Then sign a contract with yourself, promising that you will not permit your mind, your heart and your world to shrink or narrow. If you proactively heal your fears before they break out, maybe they won’t break out. (P.S.: I will acknowledge that there may eventually be a bit of contraction you should allow to fully integrate the changes—but only a bit.)

LIBRA (Sept. 23-Oct. 22): I would love you to cultivate connections with characters who can give you shimmery secrets and scintillating stories you need to hear. In my astrological opinion, you are in a phase when you require more fascination, amazement and intrigue than usual. If love and sex are included in the exchange, so much the better—but they are not mandatory elements in your assignment. The main thing is this: For the sake of your mental, physical and spiritual health, you must get your limitations dissolved, your understanding of reality enriched and your vision of the future expanded.

SCORPIO (Oct. 23-Nov. 21): Scorpio writer Andrew Solomon made a very Scorpionic comment when he wrote, “We all have our darkness, and the trick is making something exalted of it.” Of all the signs of the zodiac, you have the greatest potential to accomplish this heroic transmutation—and to do it with panache, artistry and even tenderness. I trust you are ready for another few rounds of your mysterious specialty. The people in your life would benefit from it almost as much as you.

SAGITTARIUS (Nov. 22-Dec. 21): Have you been nursing the hope that someday you will retrain your loved ones? That you will change them in ways that make them act more sensibly? That you will convince them to shed qualities you don’t like and keep just the good parts? If so, the coming weeks will be an excellent time to drop this fantasy. In its place, I advise you to go through whatever mental gymnastics are necessary as you come to accept and love them exactly as they are. If you can manage that, there will be a bonus development: You will be more inclined to accept and love yourself exactly as you are.

CAPRICORN (Dec. 22-Jan. 19): I brazenly predict that in the next 11 months, you will get closer than ever before to doing your dream job. Because of your clear intentions, your diligent pragmatism and the Fates’ grace, life will present you with good opportunities to earn money by doing what you love and providing an excellent service to your fellow creatures. But I’m not necessarily saying everything will unfold with perfection. And I am a bit afraid that you will fail to capitalize on your chances by being too insistent on perfection. Please assuage my doubts, Capricorn! Welcome imperfect but interesting progress.

AQUARIUS (Jan. 20-Feb. 18): In his book, Ambivalent Zen, Lawrence Shainberg mourns that even while meditating, his mind is always fleeing from the present moment—forever “lurching towards the future or clinging to the past.” I don’t agree that this is a terrible thing. In fact, it’s a consummately human characteristic. Why demonize and deride it? But I can also see the value of spending quality time in the here and now—enjoying each new unpredictable moment without compulsively referencing it to other times and places. I bring this up, Aquarius, because I believe that in the coming weeks, you can enjoy far more free time in the rich and resonant present than is normally possible for you. Make “BE HERE NOW” your gentle, relaxing battle cry.

PISCES (Feb. 19-March 20): Two-thirds of us claim to have had a paranormal encounter. One-fourth say they can telepathically sense other people’s emotions. One-fifth have had conversations with the spirits of the dead. As you might guess, the percentage of Pisceans in each category is higher than all the rest of the zodiac signs. And I suspect that number will be even more elevated than usual in the coming weeks. I hope you love spooky fun and uncanny mysteries and semi-miraculous epiphanies! Here they come.

Homework: I dare you to utterly renounce and dispose of a resentment you’ve held onto for a while. Newsletter.FreeWillAstrology.com.

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Free Will Astrology: Week of May 15

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