No Way!

Impossible Burger goes to the roots to create faux meat

I have tasted the future of fake meat. Amazingly, it did not suck.

It’s been two years since the Impossible Burger finally made its initial debut, after five years of buzz. From the beginning, the Redwood City, Calif.–based Impossible Foods, which makes the plant-based burger, had vowed to do what many considered the impossible: create a faux paddy that was indistinguishable from the real deal.

I’d heard it before, like when you hear a young fighter say they want to be world champion. Good luck with that. A desirable veggie burger is a legit culinary holy grail.

Impossible Foods wants you to believe in a plant-based utopia where vegans would no longer have to fake their hamburgasms, and the occasional carnivore might blush a pinker shade of medium. The company intends to heal the trauma buried in bellies of those who have tried to love a veggie burger, and lubricate the mouths of the most die-hard, unrepentant lovers of meat.

The patty is built from a protein-heavy base of wheat, coconut and potato-based ingredients. Crucially, it also contains a plant ingredient that tastes almost exactly like animal blood.

This secret weapon is called leghemoglobin, and it tastes like hemoglobin, the thing in animal blood that carries oxygen to cells. Leghemoglobin is short for “legume-hemoglobin,” and is produced in special nodules on the roots of legume plants like peas and beans.

When I first heard about Impossible Burger and leghemoglobin, I went to a neighbor’s garden and, with permission, harvested some pea plants. I located some nodules on the roots; they were pink inside. As I washed them, I wondered if they tasted like blood. And they did. That big metallic flavor. The taste of being punched in the face.

Alas, most of us don’t currently live within striking distance of an Impossible Burger outlet. Nor do most of you live within striking distance of tasty animals that can be legally harvested, without taking a negative toll on the environment. So for the moment, most aspiring herbivores remain stuck in the familiar spot between various flavors of mush, some of which can be quite tasty.

Today’s recipe is one such mush, an adulterated version of a red curry lentil recipe from the book Plenty More by Yotam Ottolenghi. If food like this were my only source of protein, I’d probably be OK.

This dish doesn’t look or taste anything like meat, nor does it attempt to, which is refreshing. Let’s hope the next Tofurky I see will be at the Smithsonian Museum. But if the Impossible Foods people ever figure out bacon, they can call me ASAP.


Red Lentil
Red Curry

Start with the meditative process of preparing chile oil. On low heat, saute a small shallot, an inch of ginger and garlic, all sliced, and one star anise, a quartered tomato or tomato paste, and whatever kind of chile you’ve got. I used Thai red chile, jalapenos and these weird peppers from the market, cooked in sesame oil. Start with a few tablespoons of oil, but then add another half-cup, and keep on lowest heat for at least half an hour. Then strain.

Next, prepare something green. The recipe calls for blanched peas. I had Romanesco and kale belly buttons, so I sauteed them with soy sauce, butter and garlic, and served them as finger foods to dip into the soup. The kale hearts really hung on to it.

For the soup, slice a medium or large onion end to end, as thinly as possible, and cook in oil until clear. Add two or so tablespoons of Thai red curry paste (minding the overall heat tolerances of your audience). Cook for a moment, then add several fat sticks of fresh lemongrass.

First, pound the lemongrass with a rolling pin, then peel off the tough outer leaves and add them whole. Mince the remains of crushed tender lemongrass hearts.

Stir-fry, and then add three kafir lime leaves and a cup of lentils. If you don’t have lime leaf and lemongrass, that’s OK as long as you have good red chile paste, which should contain both of those. (In Missoula, Mont., we have fresh ginger and lemongrass at the farmers market, so your farmers have no excuses!) Add three cups of water and cook on low with the lid on for about 15 minutes, until lentils are completely soft but water hasn’t completely steamed away.

Fish out the lime leaves and any obvious lemongrass parts, and blend it all with a submersible blender, then add a cup of coconut milk, and two tablespoons each of soy sauce and lime juice. Bring to a simmer briefly. Garnish with your greens, and perhaps cilantro, and some of your chile oil, and serve with a swagger. It is, after all, a fact that they will wow at this dish. Probably more than they would a real beef patty.