Those who have yet to enjoy the velvety warmth of Lambanog are in luck.
The traditional Filipino spirit crafted from palm sugar is the latest offering from Petaluma-based artisanal distiller Barber Lee Spirits, renowned for its rye and bourbon, among other spirits. Now, it’s among the few domestic producers of Lambanog, a spirit poised to become a mainstay in the craft cocktail scene.
Distilled from palm sugar, this smooth spirit is redolent with caramel, notes of toasted coconut and a kiss of tropical fruit. It’s good on its own and plays well in cocktails.
Of course, fans of Barber Lee’s award-winning spirits expect nothing less of the team. Elevating the art of distilling is par for the course for the artisanal brand, founded in 2019 when Michael and Lorraine Barber, already known for their popular zinfandels (among other varietals) at Barber Cellars, partnered with their friend, Aaron Lee, whom they initially met as a patron of their wines.
Lee first learned about the spirit from the owners and bar managers of Filipino-influenced establishments Abaca and Pacific Cocktail in San Francisco. “They carry our whiskies, and one night, they asked me if we could make this traditional spirit for them called Lambanog. It’s a spirit you don’t find much outside the Philippines,” recalled Lee.
Michael Barber and Lee began experimenting, fermenting and distilling until they landed on their recipe.
“Especially with spirits like Lambanog, we want to pay homage and respect to that and do it right,” said Lorraine Barber. Throughout, the team abided by their guiding principle: Use good ingredients, and get out of the way.
Their ambition isn’t to be “avant-garde,” reminded Barber, though the team’s pursuit of excellence can lead to some esoteric discoveries, like the heirloom non-GMO Bloody Butcher and Hopi Blue corn in their bourbon. “We’re not looking to be outliers. We’re just really focused on making great-tasting, quality spirits. Because there are just three of us, we have a lot of flexibility. We can make more things that appeal to our palates.”
The team is accountable only to its tastes and customers. They ferment, distill, age and bottle all their craft spirits on-site grain-to-glass. They also have a welcoming downtown tasting room where visitors can enjoy craft cocktails and sample their handmade spirits.
“It’s good because we’re friends and share the same goal and vision for the space,” Barber said. “We all enjoy doing it.”
People assume that, due to the relative youth of the founders, the Barbers are the second generation in their family business when, in fact, they’re the founders. That said, Barber Lee Spirits has always been envisioned as a “legacy business,” meaning they intend to pass it on to their progeny—if they want it—rather than becoming an acquisition target for a larger enterprise’s spirits portfolio.
“If the kids want to do it too, then great, it’s here for them, and if not, we’re still having a good time,” Barber said. “There’s a lot of investment of literal blood,” she laughed, then added, “We love what we do. We take a lot of pride. This is our art.”
To learn more, visit barberleespirits.com.
