Fatten Up

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Fatten Up

Tuesday, Feb. 17, marks this year’s Mardi Gras celebration, the day of carnival fun and costumed revelry. While the event is obviously tied to New Orleans history, the North Bay is no slacker when it comes to Fat Tuesday. Here are three festive spots to hit up.

In Sebastopol, the North Bay Hootenanny is throwing a Mardi Gras party when they host T-Luke & the Tight Suits at 775 After Dark. Guitarist and vocalist Lucas Domingue, son of Gator Beat founder Richie Domingue, started the Tight Suits a few years back, carrying on his family’s legacy for red-hot zydeco fun. T-Luke (pictured) always brings a good time with his soulful vibe and Cajun groove. (775 Petaluma Ave., Sebastopol. 8pm. $8–$12. 707.829.2722.)

In Petaluma, Rhythmtown Jive, the local masters of Mardi Gras, continue their own tradition of leading the annual parade through downtown, kicking off at 5:30pm at Putnum Plaza on Petaluma Boulevard and winding their way up to Zodiacs, where popular Bay Area singer Keta Bill and New Orleans blues rockers Tri Tip Trio join in on the festivities. (256 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma. 5pm. $7–$10. 707.773.7751.)

In San Rafael, Fenix chef Glenn “Gator” Thompson creates a fabulous Fat Tuesday spread with Cajun sausage jambalaya, crawfish étouffée, New Orleans–style bread pudding and more, while local favorites the Pulsators create their own spices when they play a set of upbeat and funky blues. (919 Fourth St., San Rafael. 8pm. $10. 415.813.5600.)

Topsy Turvy

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Topsy Turvy

When Spreckels Performing Arts Center announced plans to present a “staged concert” of Rodgers and Hammerstein’s 1945 musical Carousel, more than a few folks wondered what that actually meant.

How does a “concert-sized” musical compare to a “regular-sized” musical. Asked to explain what audiences can expect from the three-weekend run of the show, musical director Janis Wilson is quite clear.

“It’s not a concert,” she laughs. “It’s a show! It’s Carousel. It’s very dynamic. People are moving around. There are costumes. There is gorgeous choreography. There are very good actors performing every line of the play and singing every word of the songs with fantastic voices. It’s a bit stripped-down, but what makes the show wonderful is all there onstage.”

Under the direction of John Shillington, the production’s most concert-like element is that the orchestra has been moved from the pit to the stage, arranged on platforms of varying heights just upstage of the performers, the grand piano front and center.

“There are minimal sets, so no scene changes,” Wilson says. “There is lighting on the actors, changing from scene to scene just like a normal stage musical. It’s like a black box theater piece. It feels very intimate, very exciting.”

While stripping away some of the more cumbersome elements of a fully staged musical—there is no actual carousel in this Carousel—Wilson says the production does put a bit of extra focus on the beauty and brilliance of Hammerstein’s lush, dramatically intertwined music.

“The score is deceptive,” she says. “I wasn’t that familiar with Carousel at first. I knew a few of the better-known songs, but then I saw how the music is woven into the story, just flowing along with it and carrying it, like a raft on a river.”

The songs—including “If I Loved You,” “June Is Bustin’ Out All Over” and the enduring “You’ll Never Walk Alone”—tell the story of a carnival worker (Ezra Hernandez) whose numerous mistakes land him in purgatory, until he’s allowed to return to earth for a day to make things right with his wife (Jennifer Mitchell) and child.

“I get drawn right into it,” she says. “The story is very visually beautiful, it’s very powerful. Unlike a lot of Rodgers and Hammerstein musicals, which are often about big, big themes—war and racism and hatred—this is about normal people, regular people, making mistakes and trying to correct them. It’s beautiful.”

Sunny Skies at the Barlow

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Sunny Skies at the Barlow

I’m writing this on behalf of the current 38 tenants at the Barlow in Sebastopol in response to the article “Barlow Blues” (Feb. 4).

First of all, as a member of the Barlow Tenants Association’s elected board, I feel it is fair to say that the article was a poor representation of what is really going on for the majority of us who are managing thriving businesses at the Barlow. We are local producers, artisans and collaborators who love what we do and feel privileged to share our creativity with such a receptive and supportive community. There are just a few tenants who have left, each for their own reasons. But there are far more of us who are still here and have high hopes for the growth of the Barlow, as well as the subsequent success of our businesses.

While it is true that there is an audit being conducted, this is a very common practice that happens regularly between tenants and landlords with commercial lease properties, and nothing newsworthy in our collective opinion. An audit is simply a way to bring in a neutral third party to examine the fine print and make sure that nobody is being under- or overcharged.

The Barlow management has been extremely cooperative and supportive throughout the process, and we all believe that only good can come out of this. Regardless of the findings, the process has brought the tenants together to form an association with an elected board that works very closely with the Barlow management team to make decisions beneficial for everyone. Whatever changes come about will bring clarity and consistency to the way in which lease terms are calculated, which is good for tenants and the Barlow alike. We are all very positive that this process will result in increased efficiency as we continue to work together to create a shared vision of the Barlow as the wonderful destination that brought us all there to build our businesses in the first place.

From all of us at the Barlow, we want you to know that “this train is bound for glory.” It’s time to get on board and support your local economy! We are all in this together, so shop local, drink local, eat local and get on over to the Barlow to see what we’re all up to.

Gia Baiocchi is a member of the Barlow Tenant’s Association board of directors and manager of the Nectary.

Open Mic is a weekly feature in the ‘Bohemian.’ We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write op*****@******an.com.

Oil Glut

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Oil Glut

Estate-grown olive oil and wineries that also produce their own olive oil have become de rigueur in the North Bay. Add it to our embarrassment of culinary riches.

But given that olives fare so well in our Mediterranean climate, why aren’t there more locally produced table olives? In a word: money. There is more money in pressing olives for oil than curing them for eating. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t good, locally made olives. You just need to know the right people.

Don Landis is the right people.

Landis, who moved to Sonoma County from New York two decades ago, became an avid table-olive hobbyist once he tasted his first homemade olives.

“They were so good and so different,” he says. “I just got a bug up my butt, and I’ve been doing it for 20 years. It’s been a great ride.”

Nine years ago he created the Olive Odyssey, a free, all-things olive event. This year the olive bash is Feb. 14–15 at Jacuzzi Winery in Sonoma. It’s part of the larger Sonoma Valley Olive Festival, but it’s really a stand-alone event.

Picked off the tree, olives are intensely bitter and inedible. Most commercial brands of olives are cured in lye to make them fit to eat. But Landis rejects that method in favor of more natural and slow ones. And he calls the process “de-bittering” instead of curing. He uses one of three methods: salting, brining or flushing with water after piercing the olives with a needle.

Lye-cured olives will be ready to eat in 18 to 36 hours; Landis’ brining method, by contrast, takes five to eight months, a time commitment that’s unattractive to commercial producers. But they’re worth the wait, says Landis, who teaches workshops on de-bittering olives.

“You’re eating olives that taste like olives,” he says.

Most locally made olives come from mission, Manzanillo, Sevillano or Lucques varieties.

Olive Odyssey won’t just be about edible olives. There will be olive oil as well as olive-centric food, olive-inspired photography, painting and ceramics, and wine from Jacuzzi. But Landis is most excited about the edible olives from local, backyard producers. You won’t find a greater concentration of locally made olives anywhere, he says.

“You can’t identify with tables olives except at Olive Odyssey.”

For more information, go to donsolives.com or jacuzziwine.com.

Debriefer: February 11, 2015

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Debriefer: February 11, 2015

SKUNKED

Can you smell it? There have been dead skunks everywhere on the road these past few weeks. Why?

There’s an increase in skunk road kill in spring, says Fraser Shilling, co-director of the road ecology center at UC Davis.

“The young are dispersing, and this is very early for this to be the case,” Shilling says. Also, the rate and range of foraging both spike this time of year. “The adults have to do more foraging to feed the young,” he says.

People generally care more about “charismatic mega-fauna” in our midst—deer, elk, coyotes— but if you want to save skunks, slow down and “look out into the broad cone of light” ahead of you car.

And don’t throw crap out the window or take your garbage cans to the curb too early. You want to discourage these creatures from hanging out roadside, where they are quite comfortable.

Shilling adds that “from Bolinas to Santa Rosa, you’re going through the kind of habitat where you have the occasional farm and a long legacy of predator suppression from farming people. There’s less downward pressure on skunks, raccoons and possums.”

NOBODY HOME

A family feud has left about 20 Latino farmworkers without a place to live.

The Tacherra ranch in Bolinas had provided housing for undocumented workers, who lived in illegal trailers for decades. A complaint was filed in 1989, which led Marin County officials to “red-tag” the site. That kicked off a decades-long effort to bring the property into compliance with county and local codes. The county wanted Teixeira to get rid of the trailers and build housing that was up to code.

According to Brian Crawford at the Marin Community Development Agency, the trailers were unsafe for those who lived there; there are no sewage or domestic water systems in place.

In 2000, the ranch filed a master plan to bring the site into compliance, but the county kicked it back. “It was found to be inadequate,” says Crawford.

In the meantime, a family disagreement over ownership of the ranch played out in court. The property was loaded with debt and went into receivership. The court included an abatement order in its ruling to clean up the property for future sale, with nothing to protect the people who lived there.

“We have been trying to find a way to keep the people on the land or find another location for them to move to, but that’s been unsuccessful so far,” says Crawford.

BIBI JEEBIES

“To Bibi, or not to Bibi—that is the question: / Whether ’tis nobler in the Congress to suffer / The slings and AIPACS of outrageous fortune, / Or to take alms in a Red Sea of trouble, / And by opposing Hamas as well, mend them.”

Three prominent Democrats, and now Joe Biden, will boycott the Benjamin Netanyahu appearance before Congress on March 5.

So what are our guys up to, in light of House Speaker John Boehner’s invite to the Israeli prime minister?

They’re up to not really wanting to answer the question. Rep. Jared Huffman’s office pointed to a previous statement: Huffman would love to host Netanyahu, but not until after Israeli elections and the next phase of Iranian diplomacy.

Rep. Mike Thompson is keeping his options open. “We’re not sure what his schedule will be the week of March 5th,” says his office via email.

Intriguing. March 5 is National Tree Planting Day in Iran. See you there, maybe?

Correction: An earlier version of Debriefer misspelled the name of the Marin ranch family. It is Tacherra, not Teixeira.

Moveable Feast

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Moveable Feast

Six Kenwood wineries have teamed up to offer what sounds like a fun day of eating, drinking—and walking. The wineries, Paradise Ridge, En Garde, B Wise, Mayo, Deerfield and Muscardini, will offer an all-inclusive series of progressive meals starting Feb. 22 from 11am to 5pm. Each winery will offer one course of a six-course meal and appropriately paired wines. The first five stops are all reachable on foot. A Platypus bus will then take you to the last stop at Deerfield Ranch Winery and then back to your vehicle. (Where you designated driver can safely get you home). The cost? Ninety-nine dollars.

The Kenwood Progressive Food and Wine tour begins on a Sunday, but starting March 5 until May 24 they will go down on Thursdays in the same 11am–5pm time slot.

Some of the first food and wine pairings include a wild rice and mushroom salad and a skirt steak, blue cheese and balsamic onion crostini with B Wise Vineyards’ 2012 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2010 Brion Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon; a mushroom-brie bisque paired with En Garde Winery’s 2013 Albarino, 2012 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir and Magdalena Berry Port; and tahini short ribs with Mayo Family Winery’s 2012 Duke’s Vineyard Napa Valley Malbec, Katie’s Reserve.

Alternating Kenwood wineries, wines and menu choices will be updated weekly on the Paradise Ridge website at prwinery.com and others. Tickets available at progressivetasting.eventbrite.com or call 707.282.9020.

Letters to the Editor: February 11, 2015

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Letters to the Editor: February 11, 2015

Nothing to
Crow About

It’s nice that the Holbrooks chose to spend their ample vacation money here locally (“Abroad at Home,” Jan. 28). Many wine buffs seem to think that mountain vineyards are so great, with their “lean” soils, etc. Those of us who live in those mountains see a different picture. A good example is the Petroni vineyard that Holbrook crows about. Many acres of mature forest were clear-cut for this, so that a wealthy man can make fancy wines. Those lean soils are delicate and very vulnerable to erosion.

Then there are the pesticides and fertilizers that find their way into the forests and streams. If it becomes un-economical, as often happens with such vineyards, it is likely to be abandoned to erosion. Even after the vineyard is gone someday, it will take many decades for the forest to recover. Do we really value forest so little that we should allow it to be destroyed for any agriculture? This is really no different than what Paul Hobbs has done in Forestville, but without the publicity.

We have made a good living servicing the wine industry, but we feel that there is plenty of farm land available, such that we need not destroy forests to make more.

—Mike and Penny miller

Glen Ellen

Errors of Omission

I have read, with particular interest, a response to Tom Gogola’s article on the Rohnert Park Walmart expansion. To read Delia Garcia’s letter (“Strikingly Uninformed,” Jan. 28) could lead one to believe that not only is Walmart the greatest corporate citizen on the planet since the dawn of time, but that many of us “uninformed” haters have had it completely wrong all these years.

Delia, I am sure you are a very decent and compassionate person. However, reading your letter brings a Shakespearean quote to mind: “The lady doth protest too much, methinks.” If you had been allowed (I presume you are not) to point out any areas at all where, just perhaps, Walmart could focus efforts to legitimately improve the lives of its low-level employees, it might have lent some credibility to your claims. Instead, you attempt to engage our respect by overwhelming us with a perfect set of statistics that I sincerely hope Mr. Gogola will not leave unchallenged.

Frankly, it is not what you say that disturbs me, but what you clearly omit. For instance, $244 million paid in state and local taxes sounds impressive but tells us nothing about the actual tax rate incurred by your company. And thank you, Walmart, for collecting California state sales tax, which is required by law. It may also shock you to know that most working people do not aspire to become managers. They simply want to put in a good day’s work for a living wage. Can you talk about that?

—Joey Wolpert

Mill Valley

Write to us at le*****@******an.com.

That’s a Mora

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That’s a Mora

This is a story about a boutique wine that reflects a man and a woman’s passion for wine and artistry. Wait. Come back. It’s different, this time. It’s love, Valpolicella-style.

Fabiano Ramaci makes wine in the style of Amarone della Valpolicella. From Italy’s Veneto region, Amarone is produced using the appassimento method. According to Ramaci, his is the only wine in California made with the four traditional grape varieties: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara and Negrara. Grapes are hand-picked and gently crated to the cellar in small bins—same story as every winery will tell you. Then Ramaci does something that makes appassimento sounds like a condition of derangement affecting vintners: he lets the grapes lay around for more than three months—that’s the appassimento method.

Ramaci pressed his 2014 vintage on Feb. 3, after the grapes dried on plastic racks for a hundred days and fermented for three weeks. When the grapes lose 30 percent or more of their weight, aromas and flavors are concentrated and transformed. Each bottle of this rare wine gets a unique label, a floral motif hand-painted by Fabiano’s wife, Alena Ramaci.

Ramaci was born in Sicily, but was soon brought to San Francisco. His father ran La Traviata, where “all the opera stars went back in the day,” Ramaci recalls. He was managing a Napa Valley restaurant when he stepped down to work as a server, so that he could also take a second job during the crush.

Today, Ramaci is general manager at Glen Ellen’s Aventine, which recently hosted a dinner with Raffaele Boscaini of Masi Agricola, Veneto’s giant of Amarone. To produce Masi’s 2010 Costasera Amarone, grapes were not only dried, but infected with botrytis mold, enhancing the mouthfeel. “You have the sensation of sweetness, even if the Amarone is a dry wine,” says Boscaini.

Ramaci also poured his Mora Estate 2009 Valpo ($65). The bright, ruby-red wine has a spicy, musky savor of dried roses that reminds me of a desiccated old Valentine’s bouquet which, years ago, a friend chided me for hanging on to long after the girl had gone—so perhaps this is the Amarone magic. But it’s also surprisingly fresh and chewy, with tart cherry flavor—a more fruit-forward style than the Masi, everyone at the table agreed, but they liked it—including Boscaini, son of Italy’s “Mr. Amarone,” Sandro Boscaini.

“If I were to pursue making Chardonnay and Pinot,” Ramaci tells me, “I just don’t know how it would work. Following my niche and my heart is how to do it.”

Several retail locations and restaurants carry Mora Estate wines, including the Wine Shop, 331 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. Masi Agricola Amarone is widely distributed by Kobrand Wine and Spirits.

Classical Country

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Classical Country

Author and activist Dan Imhoff is nationally known for his work on ecological sustainability and conservation. Here in the North Bay, he is also known as a prolific songwriter and guitarist with Americana band Cahoots.

This week, Imhoff unveils a new collaborative with classically trained violinist, vocalist and composer Yvette Holzwarth called Owl Country. The duo’s debut self-titled album, released Feb. 10, is old-timey folk with a fresh, eclectic approach.

Speaking by phone from his home in Healdsburg, Imhoff praises his musical partner and the varied guests that all played on Owl Country’s debut, including blues man Charlie Musselwhite and mandolin genius David Grisman.

Holzwarth migrated to Sonoma County after working in Los Angeles. She met Imhoff at a benefit in 2013 and soon joined Cahoots as a regular player. “Her violin was stunning, and she was a fearless harmonizer and singer. And though she knew very little about Americana music, she just jumped right in—a born musician,” says Imhoff.

Interested in working in a duet format, Imoff and Holzwarth decided to focus their efforts on recording an album.

“We really did learn how to work together and collaborate,” says Imhoff. “The first song we wrote together [‘Atonement’] started from an Aldo Leopold essay, and we just pushed it around lyrically and melodically. She could always hear rich string arrangements and I could hear pedal steel guitar, so those came together as one musical idea.”

The involvement of Grisman and Musselwhite also influenced the sound of the record. Imhoff actually had Grisman’s autograph as a kid growing up in Pennsylvania.

“This guy was a huge hero of mine, and to have him on this record was one of the great days of a really good musical project,” says Imhoff. “It was really special. Nobody plays like him; he made the songs he’s on really sparkle.”

Speaking of Musselwhite’s contribution, Imhoff exclaims, “It was a total thrill!” The famed harmonica player couldn’t make it to the studio, but he overdubbed parts on the bluesy track “Sacred Ground,” and transformed the track into a soulful jam.

Other acclaimed Sonoma County musicians like pedal steel player Dave Zirbel and bassist Chris Amberger filled out the rest of the cast. There’s even an R&B influence in the rhythm section courtesy S.F. hip-hop drummer PC Munoz, mixing a jazzy undertone into the Americana palette for a well-rounded sound.

With Holzwarth currently enrolled in a masters program at the California Institute of the Arts, any upcoming Owl Country live dates are uncertain, though Imhoff looks forward to sharing these new songs in the future. For now, Owl Country’s album can be heard and purchased at owlcountrymusic.com.

Practical Passion

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Practical Passion

‘There were real, living Shakers when we first started collecting,” notes Toby Rose, her voice as rich and textured as an oak breadboard, “but there aren’t any Shakers now. They’re gone. All that’s left of them is their furniture.”

Though Toby and her husband Ben Rose aren’t the only folks who collect authentic Shaker furniture and other items, they do rank among the art form’s most exuberant fans. A large number of handcrafted Shaker items now reside in their home in San Francisco—all but about a hundred pieces, that is. Those pieces are currently on display at the Sonoma Valley Museum of Art.

The two-month exhibition, titled “Shaker Stories: From the Collection of Benjamin H. Rose III,” looks at the origins of the Shakers’ uniquely American design aesthetic, a sleek, streamlined style that has had a profound influence on artists, architects, woodworkers and furniture designers.

Long before LSD-dropping hippies experimented with living together on rural, clothing-optional communes, the concept of a working communal society was pretty much owned, in America, by the Shakers. Officially known as the United Society of Believers, the Shakers—so called for the ecstatic, full-bodied fervor of their worship services—first established themselves on the East Coast in the 1800s, at one point claiming as many as 6,000 members living in sprawling, mostly celibate settlements from Massachusetts to Kentucky. After the Civil War, the movement slowly went into decline, leaving a legacy of pacifism, simple living and, as it so happens, brilliantly designed furniture.

“This really doesn’t look like any other kind of furniture made by anybody else,” says Toby Rose.

The Roses began collecting almost half a century ago, never dreaming their collection would ever gain the distinction, or enormous size, of what it’s become.

“My husband and I bought a house in Massachusetts about 45 years ago,” Rose explains. “It had seven bedrooms—and no furniture. He’d always been particularly fond of Shaker furniture, so we started collecting the basic things we needed to live with—tables and chairs, a bed, those kinds of things. And on weekends, we went around to antique stores, looking for more.”

Working with dealers specializing in Shaker objects and furniture, they eventually amassed one of the largest collections in the state, every piece used daily, the way furniture is meant to be used, in their home.

“I refuse to live in a museum,” Rose says with a laugh.

Today, she says, the collecting has pretty much stopped.

“It’s so prohibitively expensive now,” she says. “And besides, at this point, we couldn’t cram another stick of furniture in our house anyway.”

Fatten Up

Tuesday, Feb. 17, marks this year's Mardi Gras celebration, the day of carnival fun and costumed revelry. While the event is obviously tied to New Orleans history, the North Bay is no slacker when it comes to Fat Tuesday. Here are three festive spots to hit up. In Sebastopol, the North Bay Hootenanny is throwing a Mardi Gras party when...
Read more

Topsy Turvy

When Spreckels Performing Arts Center announced plans to present a "staged concert" of Rodgers and Hammerstein's 1945 musical Carousel, more than a few folks wondered what that actually meant. How does a "concert-sized" musical compare to a "regular-sized" musical. Asked to explain what audiences can expect from the three-weekend run of the show, musical director Janis Wilson is quite clear. "It's...
Read more

Sunny Skies at the Barlow

I'm writing this on behalf of the current 38 tenants at the Barlow in Sebastopol in response to the article "Barlow Blues" (Feb. 4). First of all, as a member of the Barlow Tenants Association's elected board, I feel it is fair to say that the article was a poor representation of what is really going on for the majority...
Read more

Oil Glut

Estate-grown olive oil and wineries that also produce their own olive oil have become de rigueur in the North Bay. Add it to our embarrassment of culinary riches. But given that olives fare so well in our Mediterranean climate, why aren't there more locally produced table olives? In a word: money. There is more money in pressing olives for oil...
Read more

Debriefer: February 11, 2015

SKUNKED Can you smell it? There have been dead skunks everywhere on the road these past few weeks. Why? There's an increase in skunk road kill in spring, says Fraser Shilling, co-director of the road ecology center at UC Davis. "The young are dispersing, and this is very early for this to be the case," Shilling says. Also, the rate and range...
Read more

Moveable Feast

Six Kenwood wineries have teamed up to offer what sounds like a fun day of eating, drinking—and walking. The wineries, Paradise Ridge, En Garde, B Wise, Mayo, Deerfield and Muscardini, will offer an all-inclusive series of progressive meals starting Feb. 22 from 11am to 5pm. Each winery will offer one course of a six-course meal and appropriately paired wines....
Read more

Letters to the Editor: February 11, 2015

Nothing to Crow About It's nice that the Holbrooks chose to spend their ample vacation money here locally ("Abroad at Home," Jan. 28). Many wine buffs seem to think that mountain vineyards are so great, with their "lean" soils, etc. Those of us who live in those mountains see a different picture. A good example is the Petroni vineyard that...
Read more

That’s a Mora

This is a story about a boutique wine that reflects a man and a woman's passion for wine and artistry. Wait. Come back. It's different, this time. It's love, Valpolicella-style. Fabiano Ramaci makes wine in the style of Amarone della Valpolicella. From Italy's Veneto region, Amarone is produced using the appassimento method. According to Ramaci, his is the only wine...
Read more

Classical Country

Author and activist Dan Imhoff is nationally known for his work on ecological sustainability and conservation. Here in the North Bay, he is also known as a prolific songwriter and guitarist with Americana band Cahoots. This week, Imhoff unveils a new collaborative with classically trained violinist, vocalist and composer Yvette Holzwarth called Owl Country. The duo's debut self-titled album, released...
Read more

Practical Passion

'There were real, living Shakers when we first started collecting," notes Toby Rose, her voice as rich and textured as an oak breadboard, "but there aren't any Shakers now. They're gone. All that's left of them is their furniture." Though Toby and her husband Ben Rose aren't the only folks who collect authentic Shaker furniture and other items, they do...
Read more
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