Cash vs. Care, an Unhealthy Shutdown

Health care access in this country is in grave danger—and your wallet could be, too.

At issue are the 24 million Americans who benefit from the soon-to-expire tax credits that help them afford their health coverage on the Affordable Care Act marketplace. Around 2 million of these live in California. When Republicans passed their tax cuts for billionaires and corporations in this summer’s so-called One Big Beautiful Bill, they intentionally left out renewing this credit that helps regular people afford health care.

As a result, according to KFF Health (an independent source for health policy research), not only could the 24 million ACA users see a doubling of their premium costs, but most Americans could see their premiums rise if this tax credit isn’t renewed.

Coupled with the more than $1 trillion that the GOP bill gutted from Medicaid in order to fund those massive tax giveaways to billionaires, Americans are about to experience significant reductions in their access to health coverage, long-term care, nursing home care and hospital care, especially in rural areas.

This is what’s at stake with the current government shutdown on Capitol Hill.

The Republican majority is trying to pass a stop-gap spending measure that sustains President Donald Trump’s mass firings of public servants, maintains his freeze on nearly half a trillion dollars meant for our communities and keeps their cuts to everything from education to health care, food assistance, student loans and even cancer research. Some lawmakers want to stop this calamity from happening.

The Democrats have a counterproposal to fund the government that restores this health care funding, keeps costs under control for families already grappling with high costs of living and prohibits illegally freezing appropriated funds. But with Republican majorities in the House and Senate, the Democrats’ proposal hasn’t been able to pass.

Nearly 80% of Americans—including most Trump supporters—want lawmakers to restore those expiring ACA credits. The sooner we do, the sooner the government can reopen and our families can receive the care and services we need.

Karen Dolan directs the Criminalization of Race and Poverty Project at the Institute for Policy Studies.

The Butterfly Effect with Hallberg’s Board President Donald L. Mahoney

This is a bridge. Just three weeks ago, I wrote a cover story on the general decline and collapse of North American butterfly populations within the greater context of the current global mass extinction (“Another Silent Spring,” Oct. 3 Bohemian and Pacific Sun).

This week, I present a rainbow ray of hope in connecting readers with just one of the groups fighting for butterfly survival amidst the general “insect apocalypse”—The Hallberg Butterfly Gardens in Sebastopol. The butterfly gardens that Louise Hallberg established at her family apple farm survive her, as a regional model of what can be achieved for the butterfly in long developed and agricultural areas.

While butterfly gardening—a variety of “pollinator” or “habitat” gardening and landscaping—is lower on the conservation wishlist than more contiguous wild parks, the abatement of invasive species and stopping the wholesale use of pesticides in favor of organic management, it is important, and something we are empowered to do now, this rainy planting season.

Louise Hallberg’s old friend, Hallberg president and butterfly fancier Donald Mahoney, toured me around the classic 1910 farm house (replete with square turret and tumble down barn). Around it, some 30-40 species of butterfly “nectaring” or “host” plants have been planted and tended. Their reward for this work is a historic record of 55 butterfly species sited.

An aspect of the butterfly gardens I will share is that while beautiful and thoughtfully tended, they are not tidy, but instead semi-wild. There are no leaf rakes in wild nature, and dead trees are handled not by chainsaws but by bugs and bacteria, moss and fungi. This dead matter is essential to the lifecycle of insects. In compensation for this, the Hallberg butterfly gardens are one of the most magically alive gardens I have ever been in. It seems that if one takes care of the butterflies and insects, the lizards and squirrels and foxes and birds will take care of themselves.

Cincinnatus Hibbard: Donald, you said that children lose their native love of insects as they enter the culture—which is strongly anti-bug. How do you bring them back into it?

Donald Mahoney: If you look at them closely, each one is a living work of art.

These butterfly gardens are long established with many habit echoing features. How do folks get started?

Louise [Hallberg] would say, “Get a good butterfly book and plant a buddleja.” Buddleja bloom in the summer and will attract any butterfly within five blocks of your house. Look up what butterfly species show up to nectar in your butterfly book, then plant what larvae [host] plants that butterfly uses. Then you have a beginning.

Recommend a butterfly book?

I like Art Shapiro’s Butterflies of the Bay Area.

Any other general advice?

You need to have plants that bloom in spring, winter and fall. Ceanothus for the spring, then after that wild flowers take over. In the summer, buckwheat and toyon; in the fall, native asters and goldenrod. Also, plant milkweed for monarchs. And don’t spray pesticides or buy commercial plants that have been pre-treated with pesticides. If a butterfly nectars on a treated flower, it will likely die.

Learn more: The Hallberg Butterfly Gardens are open for tours, lectures and butterfly plant sales by appointment from April through October. Contact in**@**********************ns.org or 707.823.3420. Garden volunteers and donations are welcome all year. The staff urges monarch lovers to participate in the official count for the now endangered Western monarch butterfly, organized in conjunction with the Xerces Butterfly Society. Submit butterfly sighting photos to inaturalist.org.

Senior Pooches, Soulful Grooves, Irish Spirit and Death

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Petaluma

Saving Senior Dogs Week

The seventh annual Saving Senior Dogs Week, presented by Lily’s Legacy Senior Dog Sanctuary, runs Oct. 25–31, shining a national spotlight on the challenges—and the charm—of older dogs in need of homes. Throughout the week, senior dog rescues from across the country will share hundreds of heartwarming adoption stories and vital information on social media to raise awareness and funds for their lifesaving work. Founded in Petaluma, Lily’s Legacy champions the cause of homeless senior dogs, the most at-risk group in overwhelmed shelters. Encouragingly, adoptions are trending upward: Over the past decade, the number of U.S. households with dogs older than seven has grown from 42% to 52%. Still, advocates say, more adopters and donors are needed to give these loyal companions the second chance they deserve. Learn more or get involved at lilyslegacy.org.

Sebastopol

Wreckless Monsoon

Bay Area jam favorite New Monsoon returns to HopMonk Sebastopol’s Abbey stage for a night of electric energy and soulful grooves, presented by KC Turner. Opening the show is Wreckless Strangers, whose “Bay Area Gumbo” sound stirs together blues, Americana, funk and classic rock. Together, the two bands promise an evening of musicianship and homegrown rhythm straight from the Bay Area’s beating heart. 7pm doors, 8pm show, Saturday, Oct. 25, HopMonk Sebastopol (The Abbey), 230 Petaluma Ave. Tickets $22 at hopmonk.com/livemusic.

Fairfax

Fairfax Irish Fest

The spirit of Ireland comes alive across downtown Fairfax as pubs, cafés and community spaces host a weekend of live Celtic music and dance. The Fairfax Irish Festival brings together musicians and dancers from across the Bay Area for three days of toe-tapping tunes and good cheer in eight walkable venues—including the Fairfax Pavilion. Most events are family-friendly and free. 1–10pm, Saturday, Oct. 25 (also Oct. 24 & 26), downtown Fairfax, 2001 Sir Francis Drake Blvd. Free. fairfaxirishfestival.com.

Woodacre

Mindfulness of Death

Spirit Rock Meditation Center hosts a multi-day retreat exploring Mindfulness of Death (maraṇasati)—a Buddhist practice of embracing impermanence to awaken more fully to life. Led by teachers Eugene Cash, Victoria Cary, Frank Ostaseski and Hakim Tafari, the retreat combines mindful awareness, compassion, guided visualization and contemplative inquiry to deepen appreciation for the fleeting nature of existence. 2:30–9pm, Saturday, Oct. 25 (continues through Oct. 28), Spirit Rock Meditation Center, 5000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., Woodacre. $665–$1,050. bit.ly/3JiVVGR.

Your Letters, Oct. 22

Stepping Up

Sonoma County Democrats are urging Petaluma voters to vote YES on Measure I, which would provide locally controlled funding for our junior high/ high schools that cannot be taken away by the state to attract/ retain excellent teachers; enhance math, science, engineering, technology, writing programs; maintain smaller class sizes; and prepare students for college/ careers. 

Petaluma Joint Union High School District Educational Excellence Measure would levy an $129 educational parcel tax, raising $3,020,000 annually, for eight years, with exemptions for seniors, no funds for administrators’ salaries and independent citizen oversight.

It is crucial that our community respond to dwindling state and federal support by stepping up and providing our teachers and students with the funding needed for high quality education.

Vote by Nov. 4 for the Nov. 4 Special Election.

Pat Sabo
Sonoma County 

Church and Hate

While there are still some flimsy safeguards to separate Church from State in our country, the past 40 years or so have seen an advancing partnership involving Church and Hate.

The days are long past when religious groups stood on the periphery of party politics. The most active are also the most regressive and grounded in racial and social practices that are undemocratic at best. 

That so many pressure groups are so fixed against DEI, gender identification fluidity and so-called “woke” culture is heavy with irony, and we Americans are now living out a new form of entrenched “blame the victim” drama, propelled by self-styled and well-funded believers. Believing in what is what’s uncertain.

Craig J. Corsini
San Rafael

Author Michael Bourne to Discuss New Eco-Thriller at North Bay Bookstore Events

It took Vancouver-based author Michael Bourne three years to write his second and latest novel, We Bring You an Hour of Darkness, but he knew from the beginning what he wanted to write about.

“I wanted to create a detective story in which the detectives were the reporters at a small-town newspaper,” he said during a recent phone interview. The idea was prompted by his time working in a newsroom in Aspen, Colorado, in the early ’90s—a rich and memorable moment that included interviewing gonzo journalist Hunter S. Thompson on more than one occasion.

“I didn’t even ski. I just went there for a job,” Bourne said. “And I thought to myself: ‘This place is so ripe for a story. The hot-house atmosphere of the newsroom; this tiny, little newsroom creating a newspaper every day of the week. The hot-house atmosphere of the ski town.’”

So he set the story in 1993, by his reckoning the last year a newspaper could be wholly print-based, before the internet changed media and society forever.

“It’s not a nostalgia thing,” he said. “I wanted to capture what is a bygone world. The rules were different, and the baseline assumptions were different about how things worked. I wanted to capture that in a newspaper where you’re printing the news every day, but it only comes out once a day, not 17,000 times.”

Furthermore, Bourne wanted the old-fashion newsroom to function like a character in the story, with each reporter contributing their individual part to the whole. And finally, he wanted the central character, newspaper editor Tish Threadgill, to be a woman.

“I was surrounded growing up by really strong women,” Bourne said. “There’s a lot of my mother in Tish Threadgill, and there’s a lot of my wife and her strong women friends, who are feminists. But they’re not feminists in the political sense. They’re just about getting stuff done.

“[Threadgill] is a journalist to her fingertips,” he added. “She’s somebody who drank the Kool-Aid of the ’70s and ’80s ethos of being a reporter. You know—they ‘afflict the comfortable and comfort the afflicted.’”

As his manuscript progressed and the plot evolved to include eco-terrorist attacks loosely based on a 1998 arson incident at the Vail ski resort, Bourne found himself researching Earth First and then the Earth Liberation Front—a much more violent and destructive iteration of militant environmental activism.

“I got really interested in this question, which is what all eco-terrorism and terrorism groups have to face,” he said. “At what point does activism become violent, and at what point is it ever justified to blow up things and potentially hurt people?”

Eventually, the story came to include a book-within-a-book, or rather an eco-terrorism handbook promulgated by the founder of an underground activist group calling itself the Jack Frost Collective. By then, the plot was thick indeed.

Bourne grew up in Mill Valley and currently lives in Vancouver, British Columbia, where he works as a writer/editor. His debut novel, Blithedale Canyon, received rave reviews in Publishers Weekly and other publications. 

To find out how his new “gripping story of a town under siege and a newspaper editor who pushes her reporters to the gray areas of the law” plays out, one may purchase We Bring You an Hour of Darkness online or at independent bookstores everywhere.

Catch Michael Bourne in person on his West Coast book-signing tour at Book Passage in Corte Madera at 1pm on Sunday, Oct. 26, or in conversation with local author Anne Belden at Reader’s Books in Sonoma at 6pm on Wednesday, Oct. 29, and at Copperfield’s in Petaluma at 7pm on Thursday, Oct. 30.

‘We Bring You an Hour of Darkness’ by Michael Bourne; release date: Oct. 14, 2025; DopppelHouse Press.

Free Will Astrology: Oct. 22-28

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ARIES (March 21-April 19): I bet your upcoming night dreams will include marriages, mating dances and sacramental unions. Even if you are not planning deeper mergers with trustworthy allies in your waking life, your subconscious mind is musing on such possibilities. I hope this horoscope inspires you to make such fantasies more conscious. What collaborations and blends would serve you well? Give your imagination permission to ponder new and exciting connections. Visualize yourself thriving amidst new connections.

TAURUS (April 20-May 20): In winemaking, malolactic fermentation softens a wine’s tart malic acid into gentler lactic acid. This process imparts a creamier and rounder mouthfeel, while preserving the wine’s structure. In accordance with astrological omens, I invite you to adopt this as your metaphor of power. See if you can refine your intensity without losing your integrity. Keep things interesting, but soften the edges a bit. Introduce warmth and steadiness into provocative situations so they’re free of irritation and easier to engage with, but still enriching.

GEMINI (May 21-June 20): The coming weeks will be an excellent time to practice the art of strategic disruption. One way to do it is to interrupt your patterns so they don’t calcify and obstruct you. Just for fun, you could eat breakfast for dinner. Take a different route to a familiar place. Talk to a person you would usually avoid. Say no when you’d normally say yes, or vice versa. Part of your brain loves efficiency, habits and well-worn grooves. But grooves can become ruts. As a rousing spiritual experiment, you could do things differently for no reason except to prove to yourself that you can. Playful chaos can be a form of prayer. Messing with your standard approaches will unleash your creativity.

CANCER (June 21-July 22): In Shinto mythology, Ame-no-Uzume is the goddess of mirth and revelry. In one story, she seduces the sun out of its hiding place by performing a humorous and provocative dance. I am sending her over to your sphere right now in the hope that she will coax you out of your comfort zone of retreat, control and self-protection. While I’m glad you have taken this break to recharge your spiritual batteries, I think it’s time to come out and play. You have done important work to nurture and process your deep feelings. Now we would love you to express what you’ve learned with freewheeling panache.

LEO (July 23-Aug. 22): Ancient cultures in Sumeria, Egypt and China used willow bark as a pain reliever. Many centuries later, in 1828, European scientists isolated the chemical salicin from the bark and used it to create aspirin. What had been a folk remedy became a widely used medicine all over the planet. Is there a metaphorically comparable development unfolding in your life? I think so. Something you’ve known or practiced could be evolving into its next form. The world may finally be ready to receive wisdom, a technique or an insight you’ve used for a long time. Consider refining and upgrading it. Share it in ways that meet the present moment’s specific need.

VIRGO (Aug. 23-Sept. 22): In honor of your unique needs right now, Virgo, I am coining a new English word: edge-ucation. It’s like “education” but with an extra edge. Though book-learning is included in its purview, it also requires you to seek out raw teaching in all possible ways: on the streets, the bedroom, the natural world, everywhere. To properly pursue your higher edge-education, you must hunt down provocative influences, thought-provoking adventures and unfamiliar stimulation. Make the whole world your laboratory and classroom.

LIBRA (Sept. 23-Oct. 22): When I began writing horoscopes years ago, I had greater empathy with some of the signs than with others. But I worked hard to overcome this bias, and now I truly love and understand every tribe of the zodiac equally. I attribute this accomplishment to the fact that I have three Libra planets in my natal chart. They have propelled me to develop a warm, affectionate, fair-minded objectivity. I have a deeply honed capacity for seeing and liking people as they genuinely are, without imposing my expectations and projections onto them. The coming weeks will be an excellent time to tap into these qualities in yourself, dear Libra.

SCORPIO (Oct. 23-Nov. 21): Many cultures regard obsidian as having protective powers against negative energy. This makes it popular for healing talismans. Obsidian mirrors have often been used to scry for visions and prophecies. Because obsidian is so sharp, ancient peoples incorporated it into tools used to hunt for food, like knives and arrowheads. In modern times, obsidian is used for its beauty in tabletops, tiles and architectural components. Do you know how this precious substance is formed? It’s born in the shock between elements: molten lava meets water or cool air and hardens so quickly that crystals can’t form, trapping a mirror-dark clarity in volcanic glass. I propose we make it your symbolic power object in the coming months, Scorpio.

SAGITTARIUS (Nov. 22-Dec. 21): Medieval alchemists engaged in literal laboratory work as they attempted to create elixirs of immortality, concoct medicines to heal diseases and metamorphose lead into gold. But the modern practice of alchemy is primarily a psychological effort to achieve awakening and enlightenment. In the early stages of the work, the seeker experiences the metaphorical “black sun.” It’s a dark radiance, the beginning of creative decay, that fuels the coming transformation. I suspect you now have the potential to call on this potent asset, Sagittarius. It’s wild, though. You must proceed with caution and discernment. What worn-out aspects of yourself are you ready to let rot, thereby fertilizing future growth?

CAPRICORN (Dec. 22-Jan. 19): In Japan, shakkei refers to the practice of “borrowed scenery.” The idea is to create a garden so that surrounding features become part of its expansive context: distant mountains, an expanse of sky or a nearby body of water. The artistry lies in allowing the horizon to merge gracefully with what’s close at hand. I recommend this approach to you, Capricorn. Frame your current project with a backdrop that enlarges it. Partner with places, influences or long-view purposes that augment your meaning and enhance your beauty. Align your personal actions with a vast story so they send even more potent ripples out into the world.

AQUARIUS (Jan. 20-Feb. 18): Computer scientist Radia Perlman is the “Mother of the Internet.” She invented the Spanning Tree Protocol, a component that’s essential for the flow of online data. Despite her work’s splashy importance, hardly anyone knows of her. With that in mind, I remind you: Some revolutions unfold with little fanfare; positive transformations may be inconspicuous. How does that relate to you? I suspect the next beautiful or useful thing you contribute may also be veiled and underestimated, at least at first. And yet it may ultimately generate a shift more significant than you can now imagine. My advice is to trust the long game. You’re doing good work, though its recognition may be late in arriving.

PISCES (Feb. 19-March 20): The mystical Persian poet Hafez wrote, “Fear is the cheapest room in the house. I’d like to see you living in better conditions.” Picture that shabby room, Pisces: cramped, dim, damp. Now imagine you have resolved to never again live in such a place. In fact, sometime soon you will move, metaphorically speaking, into a spacious, high-ceilinged place with wide windows and skylights, fresh air flooding through. I believe life will conspire on your behalf if you initiate this bold move. You now have extra power to exorcize at least some of your angsts and embrace liberating joy.

The Spook of Life: ‘Halloweird’ Brings Variety Show to Santa Rosa

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Spooky season is in full swing, and that means it’s nearly time for the wildest and weirdest event in Sonoma County, North Bay Cabaret’s Halloweird, on Thursday, Oct. 30 at El Infierno in Santa Rosa. 

The annual event is put together by local promoter Jake Ward, who has established himself as a purveyor of sexy and strange burlesque in the North Bay. His team is composed of a self-selected family of artists, in business together for an evening’s entertainment that promises variety and value as the veil thins.

Halloweird has been held at Petaluma’s Mystic Theater the last few years. But this year, the party is moving to the newer club El Infierno for the first time. Ward explains, “While we’ll still be doing [other North Bay Cabaret] shows at the Mystic, we wanted to switch things up and ‘bring it home’ to Santa Rosa.” 

This alludes to the fact the show started back in 2013 at the Arlene Francis Center in Santa Rosa, where it was a variety show called “All Hallows Eve.” From there, it moved around to places like now defunct venues Annie O’s, House of Rock and Whiskey Tip. 

Ward also says the move back to its original home-base is practical, as “El Infierno’s three-room layout offers a more meandering, party-style atmosphere compared to a traditional seated show, which I think will make for a really dynamic and atmospheric experience.”  

The lineup for said experience promises a full evening of entertainment including slam poet and performer Jamie DeWolf; burlesque/circus performers Dani Demize, Snatch Adams, Qu’in de la Noche, Sgt Die Wies, Roxy Mirage and Lucy Juggles; drag queen Kochina Rude; belly dancer Juliano Wade; pole dancer Amber Fox; voice actor and performer Jordan Ranft; singer songwriters Erica Ambrin and Karenna Slade; Underground Improv; and Max Madame. 

Other highlights include a variety show, a dance party with live music by Van Goat and a DJ set by Dyops. There’s also a costume contest, photo booth, a dedicated food menu, two full bars and a schedule that shakes out thusly: 7-9pm with the variety show, followed by the band from 9-10pm, and a late DJ dance party from 10pm until that Halloween makeup wears off, or 11:30pm, whichever comes first.

The show is 21+, with a variety of ticket packages available. These include “Freakshow Floor,” which are standing room tickets for $25, and “Phantom’s Parlor” for $50, which includes floor seating. 

From there, things get intriguing with “Vampire’s Balcony” tickets, which come as a pair for $130 and include “two reserved seats on the raised tier with no immediate neighbors, giving you an elevated view and a semi-private perch above the crowd (best for couples who want some personal space but not the full VIP experience).”

There’s also “Ghoul’s Night Out,” which also come in a pair at $160 and include a high-top table for two as well as the elevated view; “Witches Coven,” which is a four-pack of tickets for $325, which is best for a group; and the crème-de-la-creme option in “The Devil’s Throne,” which is a pair of tickets for $200 where attendees get front row access to the madness and Ward says is “the most intimate and decadent way to experience the show.”

‘Halloweird’ commences at 7pm, Thursday, Oct. 30, at El Infierno, 120 5th St. (at Davis) in Santa Rosa, in the former Annie O’s and Last Day Saloon location. For more information, including tickets, visit northbayevents.com.

A Lifetime of Learning: Damy Tamburrino of Foppiano Vineyards

Today, Damy Tamburrino’s title is director of direct to consumer and hospitality at Foppiano Vineyards. However, his 40-plus year career in the wine, spirits and culinary industry has made him an expert in the field, with a lifetime of immersion and genuine passion for great food and wine. 

Amber Turpin: How did you get into this work?

Damy Tamburrino: It was a natural progression. My parents came to the United States by ship while my mom was pregnant with me. I was born in Berkeley and raised in North Oakland, an immigrant neighborhood, mostly Italian and Irish. Needless to say, all our fellow Italians canned tomatoes, eggplant, artichokes, bell peppers and made wine with friends…

My father always kept his old wine bottles, and I remember the labels well: Louis Martini, Foppiano and Sebastiani. At the age of 16, I got a job at a local wine shop run by the Navone family. There, I learned about imported and California wines, beer and spirits.

Did you ever have an ‘aha’ moment with a certain beverage? If so, tell us about it.

Many of my buddies and I worked at College Ave. Wine, Spirits and Deli. This shaped my career… We built one of the first wine bars in Berkeley. All of us were a real mechanical group and built hot rods, what you would have called ‘gear heads.’ 

I remember one night, my buddies showed up at my parents’ (place) in a souped-up 650hp 1969 302 Z-28, and they poured me wine out of a brown paper bag into a plastic cup. One friend said to me, ‘Taste this, and tell me what it is.’ Me: ‘Uh, I don’t know; tastes like petite sirah?’ And I was right; it was Foppiano Petite Sirah.

What is your favorite thing to drink at home?

My wife, Rocio, and I love to travel throughout the Mediterranean. I’m really into PIGS wines—Portugal, Italy, Greece and Spain—hard to find around here, but our Foppiano Vermentino is amazing. To a smaller degree, small batch bourbon and micro-brews.

Where do you like to go out for a drink?

Currently, at home with friends and family, just shooting the %&*#, with lots of Foppiano wine, of course.

If you were stuck on a desert island, what would you want to be drinking (besides fresh water)?

Hopefully, the sailors brought along a barrel of Barbados Rum, a barrel of IPA, a barrel of Aquavit and a barrel of fine Portuguese Madeira. Better than money.

Foppiano Vineyards, 12707 Old Redwood Hwy., Healdsburg, 707.433.7272. foppiano.com

Happy Birthday, Monsieur Pépin

Napa Celebrates food legend Jacques Pépin’s 90th Birthday 

Mythologies are built up and around famous chefs, layer upon layer, with the same amount of labor it takes to make daily batches of buttery croissant dough. 

The biographies of Julia Child, Anthony Bourdain and Alice Waters are all informed by a series of apocryphal stories drawn from their own anecdotes or those recited by their acquaintances, coworkers and loved ones. In addition to their cookbooks and public appearances, an on-screen presence is key to establishing a chef’s identity in viewers’ imaginations.

Jacques Pépin’s affable TV persona, once it was honed, is approachable but not informal, always irreproachably professional. His rapport with the camera is at once congenial and direct, which is to say he takes a no-nonsense approach to a career that has inspired thousands of cooks to follow in, if not his footsteps, than on a parallel path towards the demanding work required of a restaurant chef. 

The non-professional watching at home not only wants to taste what Jacques is cooking on any one of his TV series but they also want an invitation to eat a meal at his dinner table. Brave attempts to make the companion recipes are not a requirement. It’s compelling enough to watch Pépin dice an onion or disassemble a plucked chicken. Each episode is verifiable proof that the chef who wrote the seminal book La Technique (1976) knows how to wield a knife.  

In the context of Pépin’s life, “farm to table” takes on a new meaning. An American Masters episode, Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft, respectfully documents the pivotal moments that carried him from the outskirts of Lyon to a Parisian kitchen, where he cooked meals for Charles de Gaulle and co. But Pépin made his name in the United States. As Fareed Zakaria points out in The Art of Craft, Pépin’s story is also an immigrant’s story. Albeit as lived by someone who embraced his natural culinary gifts and enhanced them with industry, ambition and a sense of joyfulness.

To mark the occasion of his 90th birthday, alongside the publication of his latest book The Art of Jacques Pépin: Favorite Recipes and Paintings from My Life in the Kitchen, Pépin will take part in a series of food- and wine-related events in Napa this fall. From October 23 through November 2, friends, family members and a legion of fans will be by his side to celebrate. A benefit dinner at The French Laundry for the Jacques Pépin Foundation has already sold out but there are several other opportunities for the public to interact with Pépin and his acolytes. 

At the time of this writing, tickets are still available for dinner at TORC with chefs Kyle Connaughton and Sean O’Toole (Oct. 23); a reception and family-style dinner at the Culinary Institute of America at Copia (Oct. 25); a book-signing at Hestan Vineyards (Oct. 28); a multi-course dinner paired with wines from Penfolds (Oct. 30); and, an on-stage interview moderated by KQED public media’s Cecilia Phillips at Napa’s Uptown Theatre (Nov. 2).  

When Pépin and I spoke in August about some of the highlights in his career, he responded to my questions with a characteristic lack of vanity. After three years of kitchen apprenticeships in Lyon, from the ages of thirteen to sixteen, Pépin moved to Paris to try his luck on a bigger culinary stage. Eventually, he got a job at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée. The Art of Craft pans across a photograph of Pépin lined up with 47 other cooks at the famous hotel. The idea of America pulled him away from his cohorts. 

“Most people come to America for economic, political, racial or religious reasons,” he said. “But I had a good job in Paris and I was doing well.” At the time, Pépin was intrigued by the American way of life but when he was much younger his spirits were buoyed by World War II soldiers who distributed food. “I was small during the war but I still remember running after the American tanks and it was probably the first time I ate, or that I remember, eating chocolate.” It’s fitting that America came to life in his imagination with a memorable first taste of chocolate.

Pépin only intended to stay abroad a year but after working at Le Pavillon in New York City he discovered a different approach to the work day. In France, it was the norm for cooks to work back to back double shifts. At Le Pavillon, one shift was the equivalent of half a day back home. “Things were more open. People were very welcoming. I loved it and stayed,” he said.

Bourg-en-Bresse, where Pépin was born, is celebrated in France for their chickens. Pépin has retained a lifelong affection for them. In Art Of The Chicken: A Master Chef’s Paintings, Stories, and Recipes of the Humble Bird (2022), he paints them the way that other artists paint their human models, with a range of tones and moods and colors. Pépin also provides recipes along with reflections about his origins. But from the myriad chicken recipes in the book, I asked him to identify a couple of his favorites.

“I can count twelve restaurants in my family, all of them run by women,” he recalled. Each had their own chicken specialty. His mother made a chicken in cream sauce with tarragon. His aunt made chicken with morels. “Some of those dishes take me back to my apprenticeship and my youth,” he said. “If I closed my eyes and you served me my mother’s chicken, I would say it is hers.”

That transportive quality of a dish indirectly informs Pépin’s catchphrase, ‘Appy Cooking! But the cheerful words are also a toast to his audience, an expression of good will. In turn, the fall celebrations are an extension of all those televised toasts returning to cheer him on, their grateful arms raised with flutes of chilled bubbling champagne.  

Napa Valley Celebrates Jacques Pépin’s 90th Birthday takes place from October 23-November 2. For ticket information, go to celebratejacques.org/napa

EarlyBirds Club: Dance Parties for Midlife Women Who Also Like Sleep

Of all the midlife betrayals for women—ageist algorithms, hot flashes, chin hairs—perhaps the worst is the myth that we’re no longer fun. And that we don’t deserve a night out with friends—just maybe at a more reasonable hour.

Laura Baginski, 49, a former magazine editor in Chicago, felt the same.

“I was going to a lot of live shows after the pandemic,” she said. “It brought out this need to have this communal experience with music. I loved especially the smaller shows and feeling like part of this cathartic dancing, scream-singing kind of experience. But I would get home late and I didn’t like getting home late. I’m too old to get home late.” 

Baginski wanted to replicate the experience but at an earlier time. One with her girlfriends, but without the “late-night drama, judgment or creeps.” Enter the Earlybirds Club, a series of dance nights dedicated to women, trans and non-binary individuals, but welcoming to people of all backgrounds and identities, that runs from 6pm to 10pm.

“Who decided that having a good time meant that it had to start at 10 or midnight?” said Baginski. “That’s just crazy. It’s so rude and it’s unnecessary. Sleep is really good. I think we all know how good it is for you now. Like, even Gen Z, they fucking get it.”

After discussing it casually with friends, Baginski became more energized by the idea in a way she never had by any other enterprise before. So in 2023 she brought it to Susie Lee, 49, a former makeup artist and skincare line founder, after their 30th high school reunion. Baginski knew Lee as a person who gets things done. Lee loved the idea.

“I don’t think I could have done it without her,” said Baginski. “She’s the one who pushed me to execute it. She came up with the name. She got us the first venue. She found our DJ [Helean, 40, Lee’s cousin]. She did a lot of the groundwork that I wouldn’t have known how to do. And so we were a really good pair in that way, where I had the discipline to work at it every single day.”

The pair’s vision and discipline paid off. Earlybirds Club nights quickly expanded to other cities, like Brooklyn, Seattle and Berkeley, often selling out within minutes. Themes like ‘90s Prom or ‘80s New Wave or ‘00s Boy Bands are especially popular. Women of a certain age, it turns out, love to dress up in costume. Think glitter, ruffles, fake prom corsages, and a sea of joyful people scream-singing The Go-Go’s “Vacation.”

“Obviously it’s not to impress the opposite sex, it’s not about getting noticed,” said Baginski. “It’s just about having fun and being silly with your friends.”

The nights can also be surprisingly emotional. Many mid-aged women haven’t been out dancing in a long time. The movement feels different in an older body—not in a good or bad way, just different. “And you haven’t moved like that in a while, with freedom and not giving any fucks at all about how you look,” said Baginksi. 

“We play music that’s nostalgic on purpose to remind you of the person you used to be and the person you are now,” Baginski added, “and how those two things can come together in one evening and you can like, scream-sing the lyrics of songs that maybe you haven’t heard in 20 years but the lyrics are all in the back of your brain. It’s kind of a magical feeling.”

For some, the nights are a profound experience. An attendee recently said to Baginski, “If this were a cult, I would join.” And that’s not anything Baginski and Lee were expecting or aiming to do. They simply wanted to dance to great music with their friends. But Earlybirds turned out to be something bigger. 

“There’s so much more to it than just a night dancing,” said Baginski. It’s part of a movement of reclaiming what midlife is supposed to look like. And prioritizing yourself and prioritizing joy, which so many of us have kind of deprioritized, because of career or kids or whatever.”

Sadly, Baginski recently started hosting these nights without Lee, who was diagnosed with stage 4 breast cancer and wasn’t feeling well enough to participate. Lee passed away Aug. 3.

“She’s the heart of the whole thing,” said Baginski. “She really wants to bring joy to people, that’s her whole mission in life. That spirit still lives on with everything we do. I always talk about her because I think it’s a good reminder for people to be present, which is such a cliche, but how lucky are we to be in this moment right now where we’re dancing with our friends to great music, just being a bunch of ding-dongs, at this age. We don’t get to do that enough.

“We’ve got so much happening, so much real shit’s happened in our lives where it’s easy to get mired in the drudgery of it and the tough stuff. But these are the moments that we are lucky to have. This is why we’re here.”

Tickets on sale now for EarlyBirds Club for Friday, Oct. 24 at Mystic Theatre, 23 Petaluma Boulevard North, Petaluma; 10% of ticket sales benefit The Living Room Center in Sonoma. For the latest events, follow on Instagram: @earlybirds_club.

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