At some point, the hamburger evolved from the urschleim of sandwichdom and became its own beast.
If we are to believe that John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich, popularized the notion of eating meat between paired slices of bread in the mid-18th century, we may squint and also see the nascent beginnings of what would eventually become the burger.
But in the centuries that followed, the burger has so outpaced its ancestry that can we really call it a sandwich anymore? Clearly it’s speciated into a new creature entirely—it has vast restaurant chains devoted to it and dominates American culinary culture. Meanwhile, there’s a sandwich in a plastic triangle in an airport somewhere wondering what went wrong.
With Bay Area Burger Week running Oct. 7–18, it’s no longer time to consider whether the hamburger has achieved thingness—it certainly has, despite what New York’s Department of Taxation and Finance thinks. The venerable institution classifies hamburgers as sandwiches, but it also considers burritos, hot dogs and even buttered bagels the same. And they’re wrong.
I propose a separate classification: the genus Meatus betweenus buns. This is Latin-ish for precisely how it reads (if you say it out loud, it sounds like a Harry Potter spell). What’s the difference between “hamburger” and “ground beef?” The U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Food Safety and Inspection Service is glad we asked. Simply put, “Beef fat may be added to ‘hamburger,’ but not ‘ground beef.’” A maximum of 30% fat is allowed in either hamburger or ground beef, and both hamburger and ground beef can have seasonings, but no added water, phosphates, extenders or binders can be added. Duly noted.
So consider Burger Week an opportunity for field research. Visit an old favorite. Investigate a new joint. No matter how one defines a burger, the only question that should be in one’s mind in its presence is, “You want fries with that?”
Bay Area Burger Week
Oct. 7–18. For specials and more information, visit bayareaburgerweek.com.
Sonoma and Napa Counties
Ausiello’s 5th Street Grill
609 5th St., Santa Rosa
707.579.9408
Ausiellos5thStreetGrill.com
This 8-ounce Western Burger rocks a half-pound patty, bacon, cheddar, onion rings and housemade bbq sauce for $15—no spurs necessary.
Ausiello’s Homeslice
5755 Mountain Hawk Dr., Suite 102, Santa Rosa
707.595.3923
AusiellosHomeslice.com
The $15 Eastbound Smash Burger stacks two smashed patties with crispy bacon, cheddar, crispy onions and housemade barbecue sauce. Bring an appetite and perhaps a few extra napkins.
Beer Baron Whiskey Bar & Kitchen
614 4th St., Santa Rosa
707.412.9386
BeerBaronSR.com
The venerable Beer Baron offers up its own title offering—the Baron Burger, featuring a grass-fed ground angus beef patty with brioche bun, lettuce, tomato, onion and pickle on the side for $15. Meanwhile, the Western Burger, a grass-fed angus beef patty with caramelized onions, cheddar cheese, bacon and bbq sauce, topped with onion rings, can be lassoed for $16. And for $20, a Burger + Beer + Shot starts with a classic Baron Burger, followed by a pint of draft beer and a shot of bourbon or tequila.
The Burrow
22 Matheson St., Healdsburg
707.955.0132
TheBurrowHb.com
The Burrow doubles down with two burgers, each featuring two smashed grass-fed patties. The $22 Burrow Burger comes with cheddar, housemade pickles, lettuce, onions and garlic aioli. The $24 Umami Burger turns up the savory with Gruyère, Duncan’s mushrooms, caramelized onions and truffle aioli. Fries accompany both, as civilized society demands.
Fogbelt Brewing Company
1305 Cleveland Ave., Suite A, Santa Rosa
707.978.3400
FogbeltBrewing.com
Check website for Burger Week promotion details (not available at press time).
Iron & Vine Restaurant, Bar & Events
3330 Yulupa Ave., Santa Rosa
707.852.1171
Instagram.com/IronAndVineBennettValley
Three $18 specials take the burger on a little culinary vacation. Le Burger Royale features a pepper crust, caramelized onions, Swiss, arugula, demi-glace and Dijonnaise. The Bushido Burger pairs an ebi katsu patty with sesame slaw, Bulldog sauce and yuzu kosho aioli. The Luau Burger brings kalua pork, pepper Jack, jalapeño slaw and pineapple gastrique to the party.
Super Duper Burgers
3900 Bel Aire Plaza D, Napa
707.415.9219
SuperDuperBurgers.com
The B.E.C. Burger brings breakfast energy to Burger Week: a quarter-pound Brandt beef patty topped with bacon, an organic fried egg, cheddar, Super sauce, lettuce, tomato and onions. A double-patty option accommodates those with bigger plans for lunch. Prices may vary by location; call for more info.
