Despite the fact that once I was sprayed by an errant sprinkler head, this greenhouse dreamscape offers some of the best food and ambience in the North Bay.
Fronds, palms, climbing vines, out of which emerge leather banquets, deep cowskin chairs, an illuminated and heartily-stocked bar—a back room outfitted with vintage wallpaper and a tall lamp. There’s at once an air of mystery and play—is this restaurant a Mark Helprin, Sleep No More vision or just great dining in The Barlow?
Both. And the smash burger with duck fat fries will see to it that no one leaves certain of reality. The flavors are that deliciously altering. Happy dream dining. fernbar.com —JV
