On a hot Sunday mid-morning in Sebastopol, I joined the receiving line at Zweibel’s. Ursule Amiot and Karl Gergel have sold their artful treats under the Zweibel’s banner for three seasons of farmers’ markets.
That banner, by the way, is tasseled, striped purple and yellow, with a lazy-eyed, snaggle-toothed onion stitched below that beguiling name. One might expect as much from members of the cartwheeling Amiot art clan.
To the slow rhythms of the farmers’ market, this couple was soft-selling cookies in banana breakfast, chocolate rye and peanut butter miso varieties, za’atar-sprinkled bagels, shishito bialys, spelt puff pastries, scones, focaccias, tea cakes, croissants and sticky date cakes with coconut and pecan caramel. The rest of their 20 options had already sold out.
The words “organic,” “local,” “artisanal” and “hand-made” could be applied to their baked goods, but they were nowhere on their signage—to Gergel, they had become flat and suspicious buzzwords that hang around local products like flies.
For the purposes of this interview, “ZS” signifies both Gergel and Amiot, whose answers were shared in tandem.
CS: Tell us about Zweibel’s.
ZS: We are a super small bakery, and we use very little machines to make what we make. Our goods are very little standardized and we think, more special.
CS: They are beautifully artful and cute. Peeps should peep your Instagram food gallery @zweibels_. Now, tell us about your ethos as bakers.
ZS: We really try to make an effort at using super quality real food and not making up for its absence with additives that are popularly used to make up for flavor—you know, just adding sugar or lemon juice or salt.
CS: Tell us about your flour.
ZS: We like to use different kinds of whole grains in everything that we bake. We honestly use it primarily for the depth and complexity of flavor that it brings. It’s also more nutritionally beneficial. And it helps in the big scheme of things not to throw away this beautiful, nutritious bran. It’s better for the local food system, too.
CS: Handmade, real food and …
ZS: Fun! (laughs). Still, the focus is on a delicious thing that makes you feel good and happy—and satisfies if you have a craving for something buttery or sweet.
CS: As you spoke, my gaze drifted past you to your aqua-toned art car. Zany fun is the word!
Visit Zweibel’s. Each Saturday, they are at the Healdsburg Farmers’ Market from 8:30am to 12pm, and every Sunday at the Sebastopol Farmers’ Market from 9am to 1:30pm. If someone’s not hungry, they love to shoot the breeze.
