Petaluma Arts Center Opens Agriculture-Focused Exhibition

No, I don’t mean the remnants of a mess-hall mess-around. This week, Petaluma Arts Center opens Agri-CULTURED, an exhibition exploring the intersections of food and farming in Sonoma County.

The topic of food and the roots of food in the Sonoma County region are, to PAC executive director and exhibition curator Carin Jacobs, inextricably connected to the region, and the show’s food-and-farm focus creates an unmistakable sense of Sonoma County place.

“For me, there is very little that exemplifies a sense of place in Sonoma County [more] than food and the roots of our food,” Jacobs said.

Jacobs, who started as a volunteer and then became a board member, has served as PAC’s executive director for the past year and a half. She has a background in the arts and in food studies, and has long wanted to bring the two together in one space.

Jacobs moved to Petaluma from the East Bay nine years ago. During that time, she witnessed demographic changes, from longtime Petalumans who raised their now-adult children in the city and have been here for generations, to the young couples, families and individuals moving in. 

“Sometimes there can be a schism between old Petaluma and new Petaluma, if you will. And I think food is a topic—I hope—that will unite the generations of Petalumans, in a way. I feel like there’s a bridge to be built between both geographies and generations in this area, and I think food can do that,” Jacobs said.

In Sonoma County in general, and Petaluma in particular, the food scene is growing. Institutions such as the Tea Room and Della Fattoria are flourishing, and newer spots like Sol Food and Lunchette on 4th Street are bringing exciting new cuisine options. From an outsider’s perspective, it’s exciting evolution, but change can bring some discomfort, and Jacobs is hoping Agri-CULTURED will build bridges through food; afterall, the dining table is the ultimate equalizer. Everyone’s gotta eat.

Though food- and agriculture-focused, the exhibition does not include a statement on current climate issues in Sonoma County. “I know that there are heated and substantial conversations going on around this topic right now. But this exhibition is about the terroir, sense of place and evolution of the community,” Jacobs said.

Jacobs chose to hold this exhibition now, during an era of increased climate change that might lead attendees to assume it’s directly related to current climate issues, in an effort to re-localize the programming from Petaluma Arts Center.

There was a time when the Center’s exhibitions featured the work of artists from varying geographies in an effort to emulate institutions like SFMOMA. But, in recent years, PAC has focused its vision on a closer geography, showcasing the work of regional artists and addressing regional happenings. Exhibitions that speak to location are the goal now, as PAC seeks to deepen connections to the community, creating an inimitable Petaluma arts niche that can’t be found anywhere else.

With its Petaluma-oriented programming, PAC also seeks to explore the connection between art and life. Science, botany, ecology and biology are all things Jacobs loves to explore with visual art, locating and highlighting unexpected commonalities. 

“With Agri-CULTURED, I’m hoping to put artists and farmers in conversation, seeing where the commonalities between the act of creating are in these two worlds,” Jacobs said. “And there’s a poetry portion of the exhibition’s programming, juried by Sonoma County Poet Laureate Elizabeth Heron. I think hearing poetry juxtaposed against the backdrop of the visual art is going to be really interesting.”

There is an experimental quality to Jacobs’ method of curation, almost like a chef combining different ingredients to produce a surprisingly successful dish. This cross-examination of art and life has been part of PAC’s mission since 2016, when Jacobs introduced the Idea Lounge series, which she lovingly refers to as “her baby.”

During Idea Lounge events, two speakers, one from the arts and one from a non-arts-related field, each talk for 20 minutes about their work and processes. The audience then becomes the third speaker, exploring and uncovering connections between the two fields.

“My philosophy of programming and content is taking unexpected elements and putting them together to see what happens, be it in an exhibition or in programming,” Jacobs said. “It’s sort of the Petri dish element of surprise—putting people and objects and ideas in a room together that might never otherwise be in the same place, and seeing what happens!”

Agri-CULTURED’s programming offers a wide variety of opportunities to explore Petaluma through the lens of food.

Opening night, Thursday Aug. 11, promises a great turn-out of community members, artists and Petaluma food purveyors. The aforementioned poetry reading, Food & Memory, is scheduled for Aug. 18 and will view food and agriculture through a poetic, recollecting lens. 

On Aug. 25 Douglas Gayeton and Laura Howard-Gayeton will discuss three short films from the Lexicon of Sustainability web series and their work in food education. A Sept. 8 panel discussion with local farmers will consider the current food economy in Petaluma, and, on Sept. 17, historian Katherine J. Rinehart will lead an architectural walking tour of Petaluma’s past and present agricultural history. The show closes on Sept. 24.

With art as the lynchpin and launching pad, Agri-CULTURED explores Petaluma’s relationship with food from a multitude of perspectives. 
For more information on this exhibition and PAC’s other programming, visit www.petalumaartscenter.org.

UCSF study finds 4/5ths of COVID cases going unreported

Roughly 80% of current COVID-19 test results go unreported due to the widespread availability and use of rapid at-home tests, according to preliminary data from an ongoing study by researchers at University of California, San Francisco (UCSF).

The COVID-19 Citizen Science Study has sampled COVID-19 test, symptom and location data for more than 100,000 residents in all 50 states as well as Washington, D.C., focusing on the country’s most populated counties.

The study, which is ongoing, has attempted to identify which local governmental policies—categorized as containment and closure, economic response and public health—have helped slow the virus’ spread and which have not.

UCSF researchers gave an overview of the study, which they are conducting with the Louisiana Public Health Institute (LPHI), during a panel discussion last week with other researchers from the University of Oxford and the LPHI.

“The plan for these policy data is to characterize the geographic variation in policies across counties,” said Dr. Rita Hamad, a social epidemiologist and associate professor at UCSF.

“We’re also hoping to link these policy data with actual health datasets to try to understand how variation in policies affected outcomes like COVID transmission rates, but also related outcomes like mental health, chronic disease, etc.,” Hamad said.

Researchers with UCSF and the LPHI have collected data for the study on a weekly basis since 2020. In total, they have monitored the outcomes from 27 different local health policies, including how and when vaccines and testing are available and proof of vaccination requirements for large events.

So far, the researchers have found that test positivity rates are roughly the same for PCR tests and at-home tests. The study’s observed test positivity rate is also roughly on par with the national figures observed by Johns Hopkins University.

As of July 27, the national test positivity rate sat at roughly 17%, according to Johns Hopkins.

“This is actually reassuring that our surveillance data in the U.S. using test positivity numbers actually is reflecting positivity on different kinds of tests,” said Dr. Mark Pletcher, a professor of epidemiology and biostatistics at UCSF and one of the study’s lead researchers.

The researchers have also found that pandemic-related anxiety has been driven equally by the possibility of catching the virus and the pandemic effects on personal finances, Pletcher said.

The study has found general COVID-19 health risk to be a strong predictor of pandemic-related anxiety with very little variance since the pandemic began, as those who feel most at risk are the most worried about contracting the virus and those who are not at risk showing little or no concern.

The variance over time was more observable among those who described themselves as somewhat worried about catching COVID-19, with ebbs and flows depending on whether positive cases are actively surging or not.

Overall, according to Pletcher, an average of just 12% of study participants who reported any symptoms consistent with COVID-19 got tested within three days of the onset of symptoms. 

Eventually, the researchers plan to analyze how both changing local COVID-19-related policies and self-reported patient data have affected anxiety about the pandemic over time. 

“We’re just completing our policy data collection effort, and then that’s our main plan,” he said.

Santa Rosa Council delays request for raise, Measure O renewal to ballot

With forecasts of a recession looming large, the Santa Rosa City Council last week opted not to request a living wage from voters at the ballot box in November. 

At recent meetings, the council has discussed whether to add a measure to the ballot which, if passed, would have tied the mayor and councilmembers’ pay to the local median income beginning in 2025. The mayor would be paid the equivalent of the median income of a family of three—currently, $101,500—while councilmembers would be paid two-thirds of that figure, currently $67,660.

As it stands, Santa Rosa’s mayor is paid $17,000 in meeting stipends, plus benefits, per year. Councilmembers are paid $9,600 per year with benefits.

Supporters of the proposal were inspired by a similar ballot item, Measure JJ, which Berkeley voters passed in 2020. With living costs skyrocketing, backers say that the opportunity cost of serving on the council under current conditions discourages people without financial means from running for public office.

Still, the less-than-rosey economic projections made the supporters on the council blink, at least for now. The council discussed the possibility of putting the idea in front of voters in 2024 with the hopes that the economic situation would have improved—and city officials have had a chance to discuss the proposal with voters.

After a short discussion, the council unanimously agreed to discuss adding the item to the 2024 ballot at an Aug. 9 meeting.

The same day, the council voted to add the following measures to the city’s November ballot:

  • Measure O, passed in 2004, a ¼ cent sales tax used to pay for police, fire and gang-prevention programs. It is currently set to expire in March 2025. An item added to the November 2022 ballot would extend the tax to 2045 and tweak how the funds can be spent. 
  • Two other measures added to the November ballot would update language in the city’s charter. The first item would update the charter language to reflect the city’s transition to district city council elections instead of citywide elections. The second would “update and modernize” the language of the charter in order to “remove ambiguities, to provide additional flexibility in City operations, and to ensure gender and citizenship neutrality.”

The Secret to Il Davide’s Enduring Success

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Most restaurants don’t even make it past the first year. Il Davide has beaten those odds by a long shot.

Chef/owner David Haydon, 58, has proudly run his San Rafael Italian restaurant since 1995. And it’s only getting better.

“The secret?” he said. “Consistency. You need good food and then you need to make it consistently. You don’t want to come to a restaurant you love and then have your food be different each time you come.”

For example, his pasta maker has been making pasta for years and has become a master of his craft.

Haydon’s niche is taking classic dishes and playing with them—except for veal piccata.

“You just can’t tweak that,” he said.

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Take for example David’s version of Chicken Parmesan. He fries organic chicken breast and seasons it with toasted pumpkin seeds, panko, cayenne and then serves the dish in a bowl with kale, basil, mozzarella and torchio pasta. “It’s spicy and sweet and crunchy,” he explained.

Il Davide also plays with another slightly tweaked classic dish: A garlic-infused mushroom leek tart. The crust is sweet, not savory. And it came about because one of his cooks accidentally used sugar one time instead of salt. “But it was really good,” he recalled. “And I kept it like that. It’s absolutely delicious.”

Speaking of staff, that’s Il Davide’s other secret to success. The people who have worked with David have been with him for years, if not decades.

“We really give everything the personal touch,” he said. “I never wanted to be a corporate restaurant. Our staff has fun. We have this good energy and vibe.”

And that good energy permeates Il Davide’s loyal customers.

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“One guy comes in here every day,” David said. “Every single day. He gets to-go food and has a drink at the wine bar. Another lady buys enough food to last her through the Monday that we’re closed.”

And during the pandemic, when the restaurant was closed for a few months and then started offering take-out only, David said his customers stepped up to show their love.

One man left a $2,000 tip when he ordered his to-go food, which he wanted to be shared among the employees. Other people left $100 tips like it was nothing.

David is likely so loved because he gives back to the community that he lives in and cares about. He is a regular contributor to local schools and churches, donating his meals for good causes. Two of his biggest recipients are San Rafael High School, where all three of his stepchildren attended, and 100Marin, a group of philanthropists who raise money for other Marin County nonprofits. In fact, his efforts won him San Rafael Citizen of the Year in 2016.

During his off hours, he can often be found hiking in the hills above Terra Linda, skiing in Tahoe or working out in his tricked-out gym at his San Rafael home, which he shares with his wife, Ellen Haydon, who used to work with him catering weddings before she became a nurse.

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David’s love of cooking came to him when he was 15. He started a job as a dishwasher at a restaurant his friend’s father owned. And he quickly got hooked on the adrenaline rush of creating 200 meals all at once. “I found that fascinating,” he said.

It also didn’t hurt that neither his mother nor his father cooked very well. (His father “murdered” steaks, David recalled.) And he wanted to be able to eat good food. So he learned himself.

As David looks back on his three decades of serving that good food, he’s got no regrets.

“A lot of restaurants are really good but we’re on people’s minds,” he said. “We are so established. When you think Italian, you think us.”


Il Davide

https://www.ildavide.net/
Online ordering https://il-davide-restaurant.myshopify.com/
901 A St., San Rafael, CA
415.454.8080

Best Men’s Clothing: Louis Thomas

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When Tom Malvino was a boy he loved hanging out in his dad’s store, Louis George, owned by his father and a good friend. His dad wasn’t just selling men’s formalwear and suits. He also was hanging out with fellow musicians, talking politics, talking sports, living life.

Louis and George were professional musicians who decided to go into business together in 1946. The store began as army surplus in San Francisco, eventually moving into better menswear and then relocating to the Corte Madera Center in 1958. Fast forward 64 years, Tom Malvino is offering a similar experience at Louis Thomas. In his father’s spirit, he has carried on the family’s shop in Corte Madera for more than six decades.

“My dad’s friends would come into the store,” Tom said. “It felt like a men’s club. People wouldn’t even buy anything sometimes. They would just come to hang out.”

Things are different in some ways now, especially with more modern technology. “But those memories carry you through,” Tom recalled.

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And there are still plenty of nods back to a simpler time. 

Tailors still fling tape over their shoulders and measure your suit jacket to your exact specifications. Your tuxedo pant legs still get marked up with chalk before they’re hemmed to the perfect length. The same cash register from 1952 is still there, and if you’re lucky you can make the list to be invited to their charity golf tournament, now in its 55th year.     

And relationships are still key—and always will be. 

“Sure, it’s great to make that fabulous sale,” said Tom, who started working at the shop when he was 15, pulling pins out of the carpet. “Or performing a last minute miracle to save a customer’s event.  But what it boils down to is the relationships with the customers that keeps me coming back.” 

And it’s Tom’s relationships with his multitude of vendors that keep his customers coming back for high-quality, hard-to-find, specialty clothing.  

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“We’ve got 50 or 60 vendors who supply this store,” Tom said. “We can get whatever our customers need, often times calling the manufacturers directly.”   

Tom is now grooming his daughter, Brianna, to take over the shop if she chooses. She has a “fabulous eye”. and does most of the buying and layout of both stores, Tom said proudly. Tom opened up his second location in Petaluma 23 years ago on Kentucky Street.  

“It’s very rare to have a business last this long,” Tom said. “Especially retail. But you need a good succession plan.”

And they do. This is a family affair.


Louis Thomas Fine Men’s Apparel

150 Kentucky St., Petaluma, CA 94952
707.765.1715
Corte Madera Town Center, Corte Madera, CA
415.924.1715
LouisThomas.com

Facebook.com/LouisThomasFineMensApparel

Hooray For Hollywood at Jack London State Park

One of the best quotes about theater goes like this: “If you want to communicate something to the proletariat, cover it in sequins and make it sing.” Transcendence Theater Company is the master of taking a vague concept and making it sing. 

Hooray For Hollywood, now running at Jack London State Park through Aug. 14, is a fun, high-energy production that is less of a “show” and more a musical mash-up love letter from an all-female creative team to the movies that shaped them.

Of special note are performances of “Good Morning” from Singing in the Rain, featuring three of the most enjoyable performers in the company: Amanda Lopez, Daniel Walton and Vasthy Mompoint. “The Pink Panther” was sublimely danced by Courtney Kristen Liu. An energetic and technically difficult “Step In Time” from Mary Poppins featured the skilled Cory Lingner, and a rousing rendition of “Proud Mary” is sung and danced by the luminescent Mompoint. She’s a true “triple threat” performer who excels at acting, singing and dancing and also happens to play a mean guitar.

Sadly, overall the production is uneven. Some very good songs are treated very badly, notably an unfocused “Over the Rainbow” from The Wizard of Oz and an overly ornamented “The Show Must Go On” from Bohemian Rhapsody. Along with the songs that were less than stellar, technical mishaps common to an outdoor show stole a lot of momentum from the better-built pieces.

The most effective moments actually came about by accident. Bebe Browning is a strong singer who broke her ankle during dress rehearsal. The sudden reworking needed to accommodate her injury speaks to the core of what musicals and theater are about: bringing people together in community. The plucky good humor, flexibility and obvious care shown by everyone involved in accommodating Browning’s injury remind us that theater is a community first and a “show” later. 

If you like your content covered in sequins, there is much to like here. If you like your theater to quietly remind you about the innate goodness in humanity (surprising from a company that is usually about spectacle), you will find that here as well. 
‘Hooray for Hollywood’ runs Friday-Sunday through Aug. 14 in Jack London State Historic Park. 2400 London Ranch Rd., Glen Ellen. Park opens at 5pm, show starts at 7:30pm. $25–$165. 877.424.1414. transcendencetheatre.org

Healdsburg Latinas Create a Local Basketball Team

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“Are you guys a basketball team?” Dave Hopla, an NBA shooting coach who was sitting on a bench in Healdsburg Plaza, asked Chicas Healdsburg. They were wearing their uniforms to take photos. Linda Sanchez, who is part of the team, replied, “Yes, we are.”

It was a surprising and delightful coincidence that the local Latina basketball team ran into Hopla and another coach while being interviewed for this paper.

But the best piece of good luck was how the team, founded in Healdsburg a few years ago, tapped into an unmet desire for a basketball team, leading the group to quickly grow from three players to more than 14 today. Their origin story is simple: Maria Garcia, who loves basketball, wanted to start a team with her sister-in-law, Otilia Lopez. They began to play in Giorgi Park in the afternoons, and little by little, more women joined them.

“One day, we both said, let’s create a basketball women’s team. I played it for a long time in Mexico, in Oaxaca since I was 11. But the idea of a team began four years ago,” Garcia said, speaking in Spanish, as did the rest of her teammates interviewed for this article.

Teammate Martha Brito saw Garcia and Lopez play one day and joined right then and there.

“God gave us the opportunity for us to join forces, and God put them on my path because, personally, it was the right moment for me to meet them. It helped me get out of a strong depression I had for months,” Brito said.

“It was a difficult period in my life, but it was also a very graceful one and filled with luck because I met them,” she noted.

Garcia said the three of them began to brainstorm ways to get more ladies interested in playing. They needed to be at least five to play against other teams. Slowly but surely, other friends who heard of them playing began to join. The first two years, there were only six players.

Now, the team consists of Carmen Lara, Belen Coppiano, Martha Brito, Feli Pacheco, Otilia Lopez, Mary Garcia, Vanessa Isquierdo, Edith Vargas, Paulina Garcia, Linda Sanchez, Karen Mercado, Maribel Viruel, Lourdes Bautista and Victoria Mendez.

Lara found out the team existed from seeing videos on social media of the ladies playing. Two of them were already a part of it at the time. Lara said she did not know much about basketball or the rules of the game, but her teammates quickly gave her insight.

“I played one of our first tournaments in Napa and we won second place. For me, this is like a small family, a sisterhood, which has motivated me a lot. I have learned so much,” Lara said.

“We are all dedicated to getting better every time.” 

Coppiano joined after learning about the team from Lara. Like Garcia, she started to play when she was 11 as well. She played for eight years and stopped after having her first child. Coppiano is the only Ecuadorian on a team of Mexican ladies. But she fits right in.

“I like the passion of basketball. Running, the connection you have to have when you play. With the ball and with the team,” Coppiano said.

“It gives me so much satisfaction to play. I feel the same passion I had when I was a child. I connect again. It gives me so much happiness. To play again has been incredible. I used to do other activities, and now my free time is dedicated to it,” she noted.

Viruel never played with the proper rules as a young girl. But she has learned through her teammates to play accordingly. “It does not upset me to be told how to do things. They have motivated me every day to be better,” Viruel said.

The first time she saw their uniforms arrive, Viruel said she was excited. She had been waiting to wear hers for a long time, and the happiness she felt once she did was indescribable. 

Their first uniforms were bought by Garcia, and the second donated by Mario’s Jewelry, a Healdsburg business.

Sanchez, Mercado and Isquierdo were the earliest teammates to join the Chicas. Like Garcia and Coppiano, Sanchez began to play when she was 11, a common denominator among several of them.

“For me, I like to see women unite and do stuff for one another. Push each other to do better and lift each other up,” Sanchez said.

“It also got me out of a depression I was dealing with,” she continued.

Mercado joined her sister on the team, but she said she was reluctant at first. Being a mother and working while juggling other activities made her wonder if it was necessary. But Mercado said the team welcomed her with open arms, and the members are always compassionate.

“They always understand when I cannot make it to practice. That is what I like. Sometimes life gets busy, but they get it,” Mercado said.

Isquierdo learned of the team from Lara, and she used to play in Mexico as well. Isquierdo works and goes to school, but also makes basketball her priority.

Coppiano added that almost all of the players are mothers. Although they have busy schedules, they all try to make time for their practice every week. Some of them live in Santa Rosa, but drive to Healdsburg to practice regardless.

The majority are immigrants, who have had to leave their past lives and make new ones. This is something that can be difficult to navigate.

Lara has lived in Sonoma County almost 10 years. She explained that leaving a family and traditions can affect a person.

“The new language, new traditions. I was searching for something that would make me feel a part of this country, and I tried different things. Thanks to life or destiny, I found something that truly fills me, which is this,” she said.

“I feel the familiarity, customs and ideas. So much we left behind and we are trying to relive through our conversations and reminiscing about what we used to do back home. It connects all of us,” Lara continued.

For Isquierdo, playing on the team makes her feel as if she is back in Mexico. She grew up playing, particularly with her mother.

“It reminds me so much of my mom. She is in Mexico. Playing makes me feel closer to her,” Isquierdo said. As a comfort, her teammates told her she could find a mother in them.

Garcia pointed out that the majority of the teams around are of younger women, while the Chicas is the only team made of older ages.

“Sometimes others want to make us feel bad because of our age, but we do not pay attention to negativity,” Lara said.

Chicas Healdsburg has played in Rohnert Park, St Helena and Santa Rosa, among other places. Their vision is to create another team and add light to their court as well. Currently, Giorgi Park does not have lights that can allow them to play during the wintertime.

The money the Chicas has made whenever the players win a monetary prize goes into the team. Lara said the team has not received much support from the city or local organizations. However, after asking several times, she pointed out that their court got repainted.

“We want support for our court because it is part of the community and so are we. If they could help us a little bit more, it would be very helpful,” she said.

Watching Our Words While Language Evolves

I am old. I make my living with words, with teaching them, writing them, editing them when written by others, and in trying to transform the most harmful of them into a better process between people. I have seen a great deal of linguistic evolution, and there are days when I confess I just have to laugh. We humans are simply excellent at redirecting our worst impulses into a new light of approbation via language manipulation. 

I hosted an evening with an upcoming author and researcher a few years ago. I fit 18 people into my living room to hear her present her research and the findings that were the heart of her brilliant new scholarly book. 

A friend I invited took it upon himself to bring along someone I had not invited. I kind of knocked myself out preparing fancy appetizers, including some very pricey Washington organic cherries, select Irish and Swiss cheeses, etc. The guest I didn’t invite lingered and eventually said to me, “I’d be happy to offer to take the remaining items as rescue food.” 

Rescue food. Seriously. “Um, no thanks,” I replied, “I’ll manage.” It wasn’t as if I had steam table pans full of untouched food that should really go to feed street people (I’ve actually done this when organizing larger conferences, and it’s a sensible practice). In this case, it was as if I should give my food to someone who came uninvited into my home. Yeah, no.

Let us beware of language evolving in ways that permit distortion and manipulation. Let us watch ourselves so we don’t cloak hurtful and humiliating statements in the garb of being woke. Let us please focus on calling in others instead of calling them out. 

In this era of climate chaos overlaid with great communication challenges, I’d propose that, “It’s not the heat, it’s the humility.” Please, let us use our speech well and our listening even better. Our future, the future of our young ones, especially as many are now predicting a second U.S. civil war, literally depends on this. 

Dr. Tom H. Hastings is director of PeaceVoice and a founder of Whitefeather Peace Community in Portland, Oregon.

Tasting Four of Sonoma County’s Best Pét-Nat Wines

First things first, what’s a pét-nat?

Short for petillant-naturel (the term used in France, where this style of wine is assumed to originate), pét-nat (used by wine industry folks, natural wine fans and people who think they’re cool) is a natural sparkling wine. Whereas most quality sparkling wines go through both a primary and a secondary fermentation, petillant-naturel wines go through only a single fermentation, resulting in a slightly less fizzy, softer sparkling wine that is also normally pretty low in alcohol. The method used to make petillant-naturel wines is known as the Method Ancestral and thought to have been first used by Romans who accidentally bottled wine while it was still fermenting.

There are a couple of things to note about pét-nat wines. Due to the wines being bottled before they have completed fermentation, the lees from the yeast (which enhance a wine’s flavor and texture) in the wine are trapped in the bottle, making the wine somewhat cloudy or hazy.

Pét-nats have been trending in California since the late 2000s when the natural wine craze started gaining real traction. But the wines being made today are leaps and bounds ahead of the ones I tasted a dozen years ago.

At the beginning of the mid to late 2000s natural wine movement, I was living in San Francisco working for a wine import company, regularly tasting with sommeliers and wine buyers at restaurants and wine shops. The U.S.-made natural wines that I tasted during this period lacked freshness, balance, complexity and consistency. Most of my wine industry friends agreed. We were unimpressed.

Fast forward to a decade later, I found that a handful of my favorite Sonoma County wineries had recently started to make pét-nats. I knew that if anyone was going to do a great job, it was going to be wineries like these.

Where the natural wines I was tasting 14 years ago were either almost completely flat, slightly sour or stinky, or simply lacking any complexity, the pét-nats being crafted by the below producers are on another level. Clean, fresh and pretty or bright and refreshing, these changed my opinion of natural sparkling wines.

Cruse Wine Co. Pétillant Naturel Blanc de Noirs of Valdiguié 

A crisp, lean, pale and pink sparkling made from old vine, dry farmed, organic valdiguié grapes grown in Wooden Valley, Napa. (www.crusewineco.com)

Joseph Jewell Pétillant Naturel of Vermentino

A fresh, bright wine with a clear pale-golden straw hue and plenty of floral and citrus aromas and flavors. Made from Vermentino grown in the Dry Creek Valley (Raymond Burr Vineyard). (www.josephjewell.com)

Meeker ‘Pet Nat’ Rosé of Pinot Noir

A clean, lean and fresh orangey-pink wine with notes of grapefruit and orange zest. Made from Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. (store.meekerwine.com)

Two Shepherds ‘Natty Pets’ 

A unique blend of picpoul, grenache blanc and Two Shepherds’ orange wine, Centime (a skin contact grenache blanc), this soft sparkler is light and refreshing. (www.twoshepherds.com)

Other local winery brands that make pét-nats (but are currently out of stock) include La Prenda, Passaggio and Kara Marie Wines.


Get in touch with Brooke at br****@*********************er.com with wine, cider or drink related tips.

Discovering the Dangers of Too Much THC

In past editions of this column, I have written about some of the issues that come along with high THC content products. Now, some of those same concerns have made it into America’s paper of record. 

On June 23, the New York Times reported on recent studies and firsthand evidence that have come to similar conclusions. In short, the intense amounts of THC now normalized among young consumers can have serious and long lasting negative effects.  

In Greek, farmakeio, the root of our word “pharmacy,” means both medicine and poison. So often we talk about the ancient roots of cannabis use for healing to legitimize the importance of access today. Yet the modern intellect too often emphasizes either the good or the bad of a thing, rarely taking both sides together. This is the greatest wisdom of the ancients lost to the thinking of today. 

What the Greeks understood about medicine and plants seems lost on the cannabis users of today. The same happened with the co-opting of the physical substance of mushrooms and peyote by the hippies without grasping or honoring the spiritual component of those substances. Are we making the same mistake again? And what will be the consequences?

The recent reports suggest dire consequences for some who regularly use high amounts of THC, including psychosis, loss of consciousness, depression, and a new one to me, cannabinoid hyperemesis syndrome—basically extended vomiting. They didn’t mention seizures, but I enjoyed one of those myself at age 20, the first time I was alone with a bong. While the report focuses on effects on youth whose developing brains are particularly vulnerable, I suggest that the impacts can be as important for those users of any age who unwittingly jump to max doses.  

Honor the plant and its power, or suffer the consequences. When a teenager tells me that she needs 100mg of edibles to get high, or an aloof budtender fails to mention that the cart he’s recommending to this here 50 year old has 92% THC, or a floating dab-head stumbles through the basics of some transaction, I am reminded of the line from Zen Mind, Beginner’s Mind: “To have difficulty [and not know it is] true difficulty.”

Here we have scientific evidence that the high doses that are more and more common today have consequences that moderate use does not. At some point, the plant flips from medicine to poison. The followers of the Tao, the mystery festivals of the ancient Greeks, the Native American Church and the traditions it is built upon have all understood and honored the power and dangers of spiritual medicines. Are we equipped to do the same, or has cannabis become just another example of the American appetite for more and faster?

Petaluma Arts Center Opens Agriculture-Focused Exhibition

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With forecasts of a recession looming large, the Santa Rosa City Council last week opted not to request a living wage from voters at the ballot box in November.  At recent meetings, the council has discussed whether to add a measure to the ballot which, if passed, would have tied the mayor and councilmembers’ pay to the local median income...

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Most restaurants don’t even make it past the first year. Il Davide has beaten those odds by a long shot. Chef/owner David Haydon, 58, has proudly run his San Rafael Italian restaurant since 1995. And it’s only getting better. “The secret?” he said. “Consistency. You need good food and then you need to make it consistently. You don’t want to come...

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When Tom Malvino was a boy he loved hanging out in his dad’s store, Louis George, owned by his father and a good friend. His dad wasn’t just selling men’s formalwear and suits. He also was hanging out with fellow musicians, talking politics, talking sports, living life. Louis and George were professional musicians who decided to go into business together...

Hooray For Hollywood at Jack London State Park

One of the best quotes about theater goes like this: “If you want to communicate something to the proletariat, cover it in sequins and make it sing.” Transcendence Theater Company is the master of taking a vague concept and making it sing.  Hooray For Hollywood, now running at Jack London State Park through Aug. 14, is a fun, high-energy production...

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Watching Our Words While Language Evolves

I am old. I make my living with words, with teaching them, writing them, editing them when written by others, and in trying to transform the most harmful of them into a better process between people. I have seen a great deal of linguistic evolution, and there are days when I confess I just have to laugh. We humans...

Tasting Four of Sonoma County’s Best Pét-Nat Wines

First things first, what’s a pét-nat?Short for petillant-naturel (the term used in France, where this style of wine is assumed to originate), pét-nat (used by wine industry folks, natural wine fans and people who think they’re cool) is a natural sparkling wine. Whereas most quality sparkling wines go through both a primary and a secondary fermentation, petillant-naturel wines go...

Discovering the Dangers of Too Much THC

In past editions of this column, I have written about some of the issues that come along with high THC content products. Now, some of those same concerns have made it into America’s paper of record.  On June 23, the New York Times reported on recent studies and firsthand evidence that have come to similar conclusions. In short, the intense...
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